General Discussions

[Anonymous]

For a good gaming experience I feel how I set my PC up currently for great gaming and to eliminate black screens.

A simple solution I'd found was to run video player software and apps with "Vsync enabled" the easiest way to do this might just be to turn on enhanced sync globally then configure each game profile in adrenaline and in game settings to Vsync off and to run games in borderless window mode. Theres a free open source github program that can help some titles like metro exodus become borderless window mode even when the devs have rocks in their heads and didn't include it as an option called borderless gaming. You may also need to edit the user.cfg game file for metro exodus and set fullscreen to OFF.

Then have freesync on and enhanced sync off in all your game profiles in adrenaline and everything else off except in advanced settings in the adrenaline game profile you can set texture quality to high and surface format optimization on and turn everything off from anisotropic off to tessellation forced tessellation override to off triple buffering off all of it off off off. If your game starts tearing the image or it looks wobbly turn enhanced sync on if this is problematic or crashes use traditional vsync.

With Vsync off I do not really get tearing maybe because my TV supports VRR/freesync freesync is basically VRR really, basically freesync is awesome and I've got my display set to 1440p 120hz and configure my games with a mix of ultra/high and medium settings for high performance usually with no antialiasing but sometimes TAA if needed. You want high to ultra on textures and fiddle around with everything else texture quality is one of the most important things in how a game looks so yeah use 16x anisotropic filtering, you can maybe set shadows and reflections to medium or low and maybe try with ambient occlusion on medium or off. the higher frame rate is important for gaming and reduces the need for vsync. Set your resolution to 1440p in windows 10 display settings and in advanced graphics then adapter properties list all modes and set it to 2560x1440 120hz and make sure the active signal and resolution both match in advanced graphics page of windows display settings. If you begin to play a video with freesync enabled and fullscreen it its supposed to flicker black for a second when playback starts as the display changes output mode to freesync because video is maybe 24fps but your desktop is 120 so it needs to change output mode and switch its display because freesync sorta acts like a hardware framebuffer basically VRR simply accepts frames as they're delivered instead of queueing them in a buffer to keep them at a fixed display rate. However for it to repeatedly flicker black during playback if you aren't stopping and starting its not supposed to do that. Its usually because you're forcing 10bit colour or 12bit colour or the wrong colourspace for your display or wrong resolutions so ensure you've set to 8bit RGB and 1080p most of the time unless your monitor supports higher then maybe try 1440. if it needs other colourspaces or 10bit colour or a different resolution for the video the movie player app will switch to the correct colourspace and resolution to play the video and bit depth based on the video source. If you want to game in HDR you're supposed to go to windows 10 display settings and toggle on WCG and HDR colour option for the display then load your game up, it usually looks more washed out, actually HDR is support for more colour so things look dull and washed out unless they've been made and recorded in HDR with the extra colours so uhh yeah even playing HDR games in HDR game mode looks unimpressive to me compared to leaving WCG+HDR switch off in windows display settings then setting my Samsung TV's colourspace to NATIVE for desktop or gaming then editing the input source with the TV settings using the remote control to game console adjusting the backlight to about 16 for me and colour to 30 from 25 and applying 120% saturation in my adrenaline custom colour settings and adjusting the saturation slider as needed as some Netflix movies have very flat colour for it to be added back in by your display or hardware hardware. I then set the sharpness of my display while looking at small font to what I feel is best on the eyes which varies based on the resolution of the content being played.

To enable freesync you must press the buttons on your monitor or TV or the remote control and go into the menu options, I found mine under external devices in a game mode setting. *EDIT* important to note under my external devices menu I see important settings such at UHD colour mode and black levels. These if set incorrectly may cause black flickering as the display cuts out due to overloading bandwidth capacity. You will require HDCP 2.2 and hdmi 2.0b really or for 420 chroma hdmi 2.0A or displayport 1.3 or 1.4 on your display or TV. I recommend connecting directly to your display or else freesync or VRR wont work and you wont get low latency, have a separate cable HDMI cable from your GPU or computer or thunderbolt port to your audio receiver. Note many displays/tv's and receivers may have like 6 HDMI ports but most will but low spec and older and not allow you to play protected content or HDR content you must have HDCP 2.2 for UHD colour and 4k60hz. You MUST ENABLE GAME MODE for freesync. New TV's are best for movies when set to movie mode which processes the image with say edge enhancement or contrast enhancement and motion smoothing but this introduces lag time to process/higher latency which is terrible for gaming so you must switch from "movie profile" to "game mode" wherever its located in your TV for PC use. Some TV's and displays have specific ports recommended for PC use as they are lower latency but remove all the adjustable image settings like "colour" so for my Samsung TV I set its input source to game console as its low latency and freesync as its made for future hardware like the xbox one X's hdmi 2.1. Some hardware devices with HDMI 2.1 can switch between game mode or movie mode automatically depending on the content by using AUTO LLC or something which automatically detects when it needs to change to a lower latency mode. You enable game mode first. Then you can set freesync on, my TV says freesync ultimate I toggle that on. Once you've turned it on in your display you must make certain its on in your AMD adrenaline control panel under display and for each games game profile you can change from AMD optimized to freesync ON to ensure its turned on. this is how you enable VRR on TV's with variable refresh rate/ they require a freesync compatible display TLDR: VRR is freesync. You will notice it says variable refresh rate in little words under the word freesync in adrenaline control panel. You can tell when its enabled as you can disable vsync and not get tearing and get awesomely low latency from 16ms or more down to like 4-8ms.

For those of you wondering when 4k blu-rays and hdmi 2.0 first came out, it works with 10bit HDR by capping fps to 24 or 30hz which HDMI 2.0A can support with ycbcr 444 or RGB 444 (full RGB) just fine but gamers what HQ desktop environment with 1440p120hz so enabling high res and high refresh rates means you don't have bandwidth for 10bit or HDR and if you do, you've gotta game like consoles do like 30fps unless its a HDMI 2.1 device. So for those of you trying to game in HDR and crying about black screens set your refresh rate to 24hz or 30hz and try again or check the ports of your monitor even support it and your cables do too.

For audio. In windows 10 I go to the advanced sound settings or sound control panel and under the playback tab I disable all the outputs of the GPU that aren't in use or mainboard soundcard if I don't use the 3.5mm input jacks but USB headphone amp. I then right click my dolby atmos HDMI sound system and run the speaker configuration wizard and do not select spatial audio as it sounds lower quality and is only used for gaming competitively with headphones with the right settings in dolby access app for atmos to hear footsteps positions better in stereo headphones. I instead select 7.1 or stereo depending on your speaker setup and content being played back. and set my speakers to full range if they're fist sized if they're coin sized do not set to full range. Also if you have an audio receiver like an atmos or dts pioneer or Yamaha or whatever you set a crossover range in the receiver so its fine to output full range speakers. Then I go to advanced properties of the device and change from 32bit 48khz or whatever to 16bit 44khz with AMD GPU's the 44khz sounds more life like and better to me which is a compliment as in the 1950's 44khz was mathematically proven to be all the human hearing would require when sampling audio which is why CD's were created with that sample rate but our hardwares polling and well sound ability isn't up to "theoretical limits" so when we sample with higher polling intervals in the recording such as dolby atmos 32bit 384khz audio it surpasses the hearing limits of dogs and must be recorded at that rate then to output it most things are recorded in 16bit so leaving it at 16bit is fine if the audio was recorded higher quality outputting at 16bit on AMD doesn't really hurt it. I then use some free audio software players like daum potplayer or for audio I preferred kodi with certain settings but a recent update to windows or kodi maybe makes it not sound the same but potplayer sounds amazingly better than I remember? WASAPI renderer and passthrough mode, in the audio properties in potplayer you'll want to click the button and find where to check DRC (dynamic range compression) on and set all the passthroughs AC3 or true HD to default passthrough and disable the compatible connection and the "only use 48khz" i'd assume it'll sound better maybe without it. output as its a windows vista technology that lets apps get better access to the audio hardware and allows support for ASIO low latency and wave RT. If only app developers would use AMD's true audio engine. or some other better audio output method or solution that was developed in the last 15 years.. sigh. Its all a conspiracy to sell lousy beats headphones or overpriced but rubbish gaming headsets.

My atmos receiver I set the crossover correctly for my speakers and I then set distance to 1.11m and levels to maybe max or close to it for all of them and set ceiling speaker height for the dolby atmos front upfiring speakers to be 1.53m if receiver supports I do not enable the reflex stuff. may be different for your room do what sounds best to your ears. I set treble +10 and bass +10 but you can adjust according to soundfeel as some systems have more treble or bass than others. I did not use MCACC or auto EQ calibration or if you did that disable it. Disable all EQ settings however the dolby processor or sound mode on the output of your system if you press the surround button you will see options such as classical or studio or extra stereo surround I tend to leave that set to rock setting it sounds more like its in the room. And for some youtube content extra stereo may sound better to upmix its stereo content. I have a pioneer vsx 933 with Andrew jones 5.1 speaker pack and the pioneer addon upfiring atmos speakers. and also an onkyo txnr 545 with onkyo atmos upfiring speaker pack and Sherwood concerto 5.1 speakers. The onkyo has more bass and sparklier prettier treble while the pioneer lacks in high treble extension and seems to be pretty good in bass though but could be a bit better for a more musical sound but its good at reproduction of something pretty life like or maybe not life like but very impressive all the same especially for the price. You can spend fortunes on terrible beats headphones or brand name speaker packs and such that sound like the worst stuff ever compared to an Andrew jones speaker pack or some hifiman or Sennheiser or AKG headphones assuming you have the right hardware though expensive audiophile gadgets and speakers do sound better the increase in price tag makes them diminishing returns usually. I've some hifiman sundara's but he4xx's are cheaper and maybe nearly as good if I had the money i'd get an arya and upgrade my DAC/AMP from an xduoo xd-05 with burson audio v5i-d op amp to something better with MQA support but its not like I can afford all the luxuries I want in life I don't even own a car its how I afford a computer. I use XMOS USB chip thesycon drivers from the burson audio website and set for asio low latency plugged into the highest speed USB port on my x570 mainboard for super low latency.

Lots of clueless youtube morons test AMD's HEVC hardware decoding and encoding using anything but the industry standard proprietary HEVC. or are setting it wrong somehow. or worse using nightly experimental builds of buggy open source software like x265 that were probably developed on nvidia hardware and may have been sabotaged for AMD since its easily editable or made with custom settings or they may have overclocked their GPU or bought one from a dodgy brand and gotten expected image artifacts. If you see true d3d11 renderer hardware decoding of 10bit HDR content with free software like daum potplayer assuming your'e smart enough to know how to configure the settings to get it to play back properly with a high quality display like a samsung QLED you will weep at the image quality forget nvidia I'll buy an AMD card just so my audio and video can be that good. I just played back with a  few different renderers in potplayer and for some reason OPENGL renderer seems pretty good now it never used to work before, huh? well whatever its awesome.

As I'd said in the beginning issues with things like black flickering and other corruption or virus like activity can be usually be fixed by running SFC /SCANNOW in powershell with administrator rights by right clicking the powershell icon and selecting run as administrator. Then doing a DISM /online /image-cleaup /restorehealth command once SFC is complete. These commands ensure windows system files integrity. If it ever finds corruption I'd recommend disabling all overclocks or XMP profile for RAM and reinstalling your AMD display drivers after loading your BIOS defaults. In the AMD driver installer options check the additional options and perform an install with a factory reset and remove all user settings in case they were what was wrong somehow and test your system for speed/stability with and without the AMD x570 or x470 or whatever chipset drivers, I think the important ones are the ryzen power plan and PSP not too sure about the rest as they maybe seem to slow things down depending on your system. Test with them installed or not installed.

Then disabling xmp and all other overclocking but I will teach you a way to have your system not overclocked but still gaining massive performance instead and over the last few weeks/months i'd been testing and fiddling with secondary memory timings and found some corruption or errors maybe came about from altering certain secondary memory timing options like or enabling XMP or particularly setting different refresh cycles particularly to be ones that aren't listed specifically for the speed/timing in DRAM information section in bios. So yeah just disable XMP and any CPU and GPU overclock you'd been doing and then enable Precision Boost Overclock (P.B.O.) in the bios on your ryzen system it just means that when it runs programs it will stay at the boost clocks more often than it will at the base clocks, you can disable RAM ECC in bios too for more speed without fear unless you're running a business or webserver then why are you here or with a 5700xt or care about gaming?

Instead of using XMP just setting the voltage to what the XMP profile would normally set it to then leaving XMP profile to auto in my bios and setting your memory timings manually I recommend 1866mhz with command rate 1T to double the performance/speed so its actually 2x 1866 (thanks to command rate 1T its only sending each command once instead of default twice) so 1866 is faster than regular 3200mhz XMP and with shockingly lower latency timings possible around 1 third to half as low almost half the latency which in billionths of a second makes your system CRAZY responsive it all adds up over billions of times. Then Disable gear down mode (the command rate and gear down mode are at the bottom of the secondary memory timings for anything I've seen) then setting your memory timings to be those suggested for 1866mhz in the DRAM timing information.

(The easy way is to set 1866mhz then leave everything to auto in secondary memory timings except for command rate and geardown mode) But for me instead of all 13's for 1866mhz I set my memory to all 11's the 1600mhz setting in DRAM timing info so far I've not caught on to any issues from this as my system boots and runs fine lower but i cant notice much of a difference with 9 10 10 10 so I thought for stability i'd best leave it to all 11's but leaving everything to auto is fine too as long as you change to 1866mhz it will populate the numbers for you but they may not be as fast as they could be. I'd found it normally automatically lowers TRAS which is an active timing window so longer can be better on my system lowering below 38 makes programs load slower and icons in my system tray next to the clock take longer to appear when I boot into windows, and increasing it to say 42 can make them load faster but I'm not certain if it causes some unusual texture pop-in in games or something I dunno I left it to what the XMP would have set it to for optimal results i think its how the RAM was made? at 38 But thats on my system its best for me to leave it at 38 instead of 30 or something lower and as for FTAW being at 38 seems better than 17 or 20 or even 23 which are recommended for timings like 1600/1866/2133 as its also an active window I believe default is like 58 for this? which is actually really slow I don't know why but my system testing different values 38 seemed best 23 maybe close second? while 28 or 27 sucked. As I've some good RAM I set my TRC to be 38 which is meant for 1600mhz but if you suffer from a micro stutter every few minutes or something set it to what your DRAM information in bios says for 1866 which on my RAM says 44. (default is slow and laggy and terrible at something like 58 or fifty something?) setting the S/L timings under TRC to what was specified in the DRAM timing information in your bios, the S/L timings can lower the latency of audio and make it sound slightly different and slightly speed things up a bit, I only change the first two S/L ones as the second group of S/L can speed things up a bit if I set them both to 6,6 but it maybe causes issues somehow.

Next you will want to go into windows 10 settings and gaming menu option and disable everything there. Turn game mode off too. Then you will want to search the web for some guides on disabling unnecessary windows 10 system services they should give you an explanation of what each one does and you can decide whether you need them or not like remote desktop/hyper V(virtualization support) or fax machine support or telephone support or smart cards, touch screen and pen drawing support. Setting them from automatic to disabled can free up performance if you don't use or need them. You could also do the same for windows privacy settings turn off what you don't want or need in the privacy menu of windows 10 settings and disable all the background apps you don't want updating/running in the background. I can live if solitaire never updates or paint 3d because i dont use it. You can also set what apps have access to your microphone or camera. Next you will want to disable all overlays like steam overlay or AMD adrenalines overlay as long but you will require them to record game footage with relive or to broadcast in steam if you're doing that. But really you should for best performance only enabled them as required or if the game doesn't have fps or latency performance metrics like doom 2016 or borderlands 3 so you can see how low your average frame time and CPU latency is you can enable show performance metrics in AMD's adrenaline settings tab under general on the right hand side.

I also uninstall/remove windows features I don't use such as windows 10 media player or internet explorer 11 or powershell 2.0 (they're up to maybe 6 or more so 2 is useless to have). I also then ensure that my steam overlay is disabled I enable hardware acceleration in steam settings, and hardware video decoding and opt in to the steam client beta. I'm currently running a windows insider version 2004 of windows 10 so I am required to keep full diagnostic services and windows insider service keep this in mind when disabling services.

Most titles seem to run far far far better and faster higher FPS in borderless fullscreen mode for me. Doom2016 in VULKAN, Shadow of the tomb raider, Frost punk, GRIP, Red Dead Redemption 2, Just cause 4, witcher 3, gundam new breaker, halo the masterchief collection and vermintide 2 are some of the titles i'd tested which appear to run better in borderless windowed mode than fullscreen. Though I'm not certain about some titles like Warhammer chaosbane as it refuses to want to run in borderless windowed mode or something? Maybe give it a try in borderless window mode the games you are struggling with as it greatly reduces latency for me and gives me a great gaming experience it might help you with your black bars as it seems to make my system with a 5700xt game better.
I've a 2017 Samsung QLED Q7FN and a ryzen 2700x with some gskill trident Z RAM.

I recommend using Samsung SSD's/NVME's but I don't think you actually need to enable RAPID mode. also better RAM is better but only by a few % so consider if its worth the price increase. Samsung B die memory is awesome but most people shouldn't waste the money on such small gains unless pro gamers. AMD's bios RAID is good its one of the few raid controllers better than windows software RAID performance for NVME's intels highpoint RAID controllers just aren't up to beating windows software RAID last I checked. So yeah YAY for AMD. I'm not sure about a massive improvement with RAID 0 but its maybe better than nothing, when I tried a volume raid the default RAID option it seemed to boot into windows faster but that may be me having 2 SSD's and 2 NVME's or something to do with AHCI and Samsung drives or file optimization of Samsung drives and lower latency.

As for the people suggesting that the 2070 super is better than a 5700xt. Forget the 2070, if you look at a 2080 ti's 754mm squared chip size and do some simple division maths of silicon area its something like 3.3 times that of a 5700xt but its not even 1.5 times better FPS that's trash. I changed over from a gtx 1060 to a rx 580 and the VIDEO and AUDIO quality were SOOO IMPRESSIVELY amazingly better when hooked up to the same display that even 10bit colour desktop or HDR video content looked better like nvidia's was false 10bit or not true colours software faked or something I swore off nvidia even if AMD only ever games at 60fps tops versus nvidia's falsified benchmarks of 200 whatever they're selling I wouldn't care at all the audio and visual experience is sooo much better and worth it.

Simple fact of life, if the cards do the same thing, they'll use the same power end of discussion. When I mentioned VRM I meant the 7phase Power Regulation my powercolor red devil has on the PCB versus the default of 4 or whatever AMD's standards said. This lets you play with more power and maintain stability and ensures your components get the right amount of power if you were say overclocking or something. But I don't really need that i've got a factory overclocked card. 7nm process uses like fractions of the power that 12 or 14 does so if AMD uses more power and runs hotter its a freaking powerhouse unstoppable unbeatable machine. Don't take my works for it read TSMC's promotional materials for their 7nm fabrication process you'll see words and figures giving you how much power gets absurdly slashed and performance increases for the exact same CPU or GPU simply by being scaled down to 7nm. Maybe you've never heard of TSMC or global foundries or you know the companies that manufacture all our CPU's and GPU's much like how samsung and hynix and micron make all our RAM. or LG makes most of the cheap disposable OELD TV panels for other companies like B.O.E. (sony) and such when samsungs OLED/AMOLED panels are vastly superior a google nexus displays oled panel makes you wanna throw your google pixel 2 into space because its worlds first LG OLED panel in a phone and it was horribly bad by comparison just taking a photo of the two phones next to each other the whites on the Samsung and brightness was sooo contasty by contrast. pixel 2 had ghosting like mad on first release dunno if ever fixed. 

True fact the worlds first mobile phone processor on 7nm did have like 1.6x faster GPU and something like 2/3 longer battery life all this was in a jump from 14nm down to 7nm and the clock speeds were like roughly the same basically. It was called the kirin 980 from Huawei. Google it, read, learn, learn to understand what words and specs mean and facts and reality. Reality is what nvidia fans hate the most as it contains the truth or at least an education.. AMD CPU's and GPU's are so advanced you don't even know till 10 years later you might begin to have a clue, but nope AMD's superior hardware been around since playstation 3 where devs could offload processes to the AMD GPU for vastly higher quality for video and audio from texture compression support to audio processing but you read playstation 3 developer blogs about the morons saying "thanks to the IBM cell processor developed by lisa su we can now dedicate different cores to different process threads so we can make one for water physics and one for audio and.." I hope they die of a raging clue.

You can tell me how much better nvidia are but they're just simply not. AMD freesync is like a decade old free and open standard anyone can use or build with. Nvidias latest greatest cards don't even support it at all, but heres the thing all it is is simply lower latency by passing frames directly into the display instead of using CPU+SOFTWARE VSYNC BUFFERING of them. If nvidia's cards cant low latency pass out frames without vsync what does that tell you? I'm taking an educated guess and thinking that nvidia's gsync is literally just different software vsync modes being ran by the CPU and as the frame rate goes up and down it actively switches between fast and half vsync modes in the nvidia control panel for you to eliminate the issues encountered when you have inadequate software frame buffering. So out of all the thousands of freesync displays tested nvidia lied out their arses and said "well these 15 monitors are good enough that they seem to work OK when ran with our garbage hardware". And you're throwing money at them saying "ohh if I spend thousands more on a Gsync display the thousand dollar display magically seems like a better display than a cheap $200 freesync display, mostly because I don't know how to enable VRR or freesync or how to make it work or I've only ever gamed with vsync enabled." But yeah a thousand dollar display may have some better colour and latency and HDR specs than a cheap freesync one who would have ever believed it was possible what a world we live in.

Hope this helps clear up and eliminate black screens.

Also when installing AMD drivers carefully pay attention to the end installers finished screen. If it gives you an error number your computer may seem to work but it isn't and you'll get system stability and black screen issues. Carefully follow AMD's recommended steps to perform by searching the error code on AMD's website and scan for viruses or SFC/scannow and DISM /online /cleanup-image /restore health as those tend to fix it most of the time. or you maybe just require some visual studio redistributables. If all that hasn't let you install AMD drivers without an error code contact AMD support staff.

Hope this helps everyone out there struggling to game on an AMD system.

[dinovdmerwe]

Thank you very much for this. 

I have the exact same TV as you and a 5700XT Gaming X and would like to know if you are experiencing the same issue as I am.

Are you able to select 10 bit 4:2:2 1440p @ 120hz in the AMD settings? I am only able to select 8 bit 4:4:4 RGB 1440p @ 120hz. I was able to trick/force the TV into playing HDR video @1440p/120hz by selecting HDR in Division 2 and alt+tabbing a few times until boom the colors popped like they should.

This is not a link speed issue - am I missing something? Is the TV supposed to govern this for me and I select it manually in games?

In the post https://community.amd.com/message/2953854 another user complained about this issue with a Vega GPU. 

Your feedback will be highly appreciated.

[Anonymous]

Hi, it isnt an issue with vega or AMD or anything its an issue with bandwidth limitations and HDMI and displayport ports and cables. And also with what freesync is designed for. If you wish to game in HDR you must go to windows 10 display settings and toggle HDR and WCG colour enabled on first! you must have your display in 420 or 422 10bit in AMD control panel then start your game up. Personally i've tried enabling HDR mode in windows settings then setting my display to 10bit colour but it looks worse than simply setting my TV's colourspace to "native" so it auto enhances the colour bitdepth of all my content and setting my TV source input to game console and adjusting my TV's picture settings to however I like then just setting colour in adrenaline software to 120% saturation or for some games or netflix i may increase the saturation slider in adrenaline to be higher. The only downside to playing a HDR game like this with HDR off is that some very very dark details may be a little crushed in shadows. When you adjust your in game gamma settings you may find that the darkest images are nigh impossible to see. But it looks so much better and its almost never a make or break for a game you can up the brightness in your display settings to correct or adjust ingame brightness gamma settings to compensate. 

when I game I disable all overlays possible including the Uplay ingame overlay it complains when i launch it that some features may be missing but screw ubisoft works fine so far. I also disable adrenaline overlay.

From what i've seen most tv's and displays are either 4k30hz or 4k60hz 444 8bit limited by HDMI 2.0a or hdmi 2.0b. 

You can set them to 420 compression mode to lose a little quality on some colours like magenta's and navy blues and make text hard to read and possibly eye sight damaging unless its huge movie subtitles that are always yellow or white and thick. you shouldnt use your PC desktop in 420 mode. gaming is ok in it on consoles and in general as they've been designed with big fonts and colours to not ruin your eyes and you sit far enough back its not a high quality output either.

internet chatrooms and things with purple or navy blue usernames or text or small fonts in 420 will appear fuzzy and hard to read with chroma subsampling compression which is why you should 8bit444 instead for regular desktop. If your video player like daum potplayer MPC HC or kodi or whatever needs to output 10bit video with HDR it will change its output colourspace for you, you can enable fullscreen exclusive mode for video playback of content and use d3d11 renderer. 

I just recently got the division 2 and havent played it much, its actually like most games nowadays like the frostbyte engine and EA titles like BFV or SWBF2 has been designed with forced antialiasing to cover up all the terrible messy textures that have join seams and artifacts everywhere and shimmering peak luminance max clipping. basically the morons designed the whole game with AA on and then turning it off reveals a nightmare. which is a shame as having AA on cripples performance and latency even if i go to great pains to force it off it looks so ugly i must turn it back on.

Try gaming in borderless windowed mode like I do maybe that will help fix your issues. Basically with freesync I believe its meant for RGB 444 if you want 10 or 12bit you must YCBCR 420.. theres not enough bandwidth for full 444 120hz 1440p and 12bit at 444. If you go down to 1080p then theres way less bandwidth used so you can squeeze in full 12bit 444 RGB 1080p 120hz. But it doesnt work for 1440p because theres not enough room in bandwidth of the ports and cables. with HDMI 2.1 it should or perhaps with a display port 1.4 display and a displayport 1.4 cable and your 5700xt's displayport which goes up to 5k there'd maybe be enough room i'd guess since it does 4k 120hz over displayport but our TV's dont have displayport and all the converter adaptors cripple the bandwidth as they're cheap and old and slow hdmi 2.0b without freesync because there'd be an adaptor in between breaking the chain freesync needs direct input to the display and low latency because it has to feed frames to the display differently than it would to adaptor or other device like audio receiver.

Rather than waste time telling you my settings i just snapped a few photos keep in mind i've not optimized my graphics settings in game very well yet as i just recently got it and didnt wanna waste much time. If you wanna improve speed maybe lower the world/environment quality i left it at high as i like it when games look good or disable parralax or lower vegetation maybe as it may help you spot guys but i like having at least medium. Or you could try force TAA off in the my documents folders game settings.cfg file by editing it and maybe set to read only? but that looks like barf.

http://imgur.com/a/OW7aTpR

The reason HDR is good is because it lets you have "subtle details" more shades of dark objects in shadow and if a bright light is shining like a lamp or light bulb instead of being a glowing white ball around it you can see details within the brightest parts of light for video content a dark shadow or a black dog used to be a black object with no fine details now with HDR we can see subtle strands of black hairs because the info isnt lost. But for video games HDR makes them look a little dull or less vibrant but i'm an old man who loves oldschool high colour saturation vibrant popping colours on my video games and video content so for netflix with the windows 10 store app I play HDR content back in SDR mode and use my TV's settings and AMD adrenaline saturation to make things look super colourful and pretty. in my opinion it looks better than HDR though its less lifelike and maybe not as director intended but ehh.. choice is yours.

[dinovdmerwe]

Thanks for the response and attached images.

I do not believe that this is a bandwidth issue.

I do not want to use RGB 4:4:4 1440p 120hz as I know this is not possible over HDMI due to its limited bandwidth. I want to use YCBCR 4:2:2. Even 4:2:0 if i can while running 10bpc 1440p 120hz. This must be possible as this uses less bandwidth than 4k 10 bit YCBCR 4:2:2 @60hz(Which works fine on my setup, but is limited to 60hz) as per Wikipedia. HDMI - Wikipedia

As you can see in your screenshots, Division 2 does not detect it is connected to an HDR display(Mine does if i alt+tab a few times). I managed to get it to run in HDR 1440p 120hz but that required some alt+tabbing(AMD driver still only offered 8bpc here so the TV must have overrid the driver somehow). I will confirmt he game colors looked way better. It was definitely running in HDR and my TV info stated UHD HDR. I could also feel that it was running 120hz. It is like the AMD software does not have functionality to manually set the pixel format to anything besides 8bpc when running at 1440p 120hz.

Have you been able to set your display to 10 bit 4:2:2/4:2:0 1440p@120hz?

I see you mentioned you put your Windows into HDR and then change the AMD control panel settings - is this in 4K resolution?

"If you wish to game in HDR you must go to windows 10 display settings and toggle HDR and WCG colour enabled on first! you must have your display in 420 or 422 10bit in AMD control panel then start your game up"

[okadix]

Hello, I have a LG34GL750 monitor, I recently activated HDR and it looks great in games, except when taking screenshots, will it be the drivers for amd?

HDR ON

HDR OFF

AMD DISPLAY

The screenshot (win + alt + print screen) generates two screenshots one in jxr format and in png, recognizing HDR

Excuse my level of English...

[Anonymous]

Hi.

Sorry to disappoint you but you are using a not very good monitor at all.

You see LG34GL750 it says HDR10 compatible but its only got like 300CCDM of brightness.. thats like 300nits. For AMD gaming the HDR 10 standard requires HDR 400 minimum which is an overpriced waste of time as those monitors have so little HDR that its not visually impressive or worth the extra cost for a HDR display you can get better looking SDR monitors for the same price is often the case when compared to a 400nits of HDR display you should save your money or get SDR. As the HDR adds more cost to the display meaning a cheap HDR monitor though expensive is not a good buy at all as its usually less impressive or specced than a monitor SDR of the same price.

Most 4k bluray discs are mastered in 1000 nits of HDR. So if you want a HDR display its best to go all in and get HDR thats visibly better and get full 1000nits. Or buy a large quantum dot TV for a similar price and it will have maybe 1500nits of HDR or 2000 nits of HDR and support 200hz or 240hz 1080p and 120hz 4k and will have freesync ultimate/VRR and be like 55 inches instead of a say 38inch or 32inch 4k HDR 400nits monitor. Here in australia you could have bought a hisense TV on black friday sales for same price as a 4k monitor with sooo much better specs and size its absurd monitors are overpriced garbage often is the case.

You are using an Nvidia Gsync monitor with an AMD graphics card, so even if freesync does work at all it probably wont work very well. Your display has a max resolution of 2560x1080 so I'm assuming its "claims of 144hz" requires you to possibly run in 1920x720 resolution to acheive it? or does it work at 144hz at 2560x1080res I wonder? Are you using AMD relive and "overlay" to capture the screenshots or record video if so then you may need to contact AMD. If you are using windows 10 to capture the images you should contact microsoft support for the windows OS. My guess is if its saving two images for HDR thats how HDR photography works in photoshop or FALSE HDR with layering multiple images which creates blurry oversaturated garbage but some of it can be very pretty but not exactly how HDR monitors work. HDR monitors do add additional colours but its sent in via metadata during playback or at the start of playback and it instructs your display how to output to the display in additional colours or brightness for the movie/game so it can be as the director intended hopefully. perhaps in HDR desktop mode when you are taking screenshots or viewing the screenshots the programs you are using do not support capturing HDR video. try capturing screenshots and viewing them with different software.

truth is for HDR 10bit video you must capture in LOG format then use colour grading software to add all the colours back into the footage at the settings and levels you want and to adjust the levels/luminance and raise peak brightness ceiling to 1000nits in the editing software and ideally you'd capture it with a camera with a HQ 10/12/16bit sensor usually expensive ones like an 8k red monstro cinema camera costing hundreds of thousands for full setup. In video games most game engines that create the game are actually 16bit colour supported which is why most video games look very colourful and vibrant compared to other content on your PC and using HDR in video games just means the levels of brightness and colour have been adjusted for the display to however many nits the display supports. More HDR means things can be more lifelike like if a painter makes a black and white painting or a lead pencil drawing can only use 8 different blacks/greys on his brush/pencil his picture wont look life like but if he can mix paints and whites and blacks and create hundreds of shades/tones and make subtle tones of black or dark grey and lighter then it looks more life like. HDR adds subtle details making things more life like but often it makes things look dull and unimpressive compared to high colour anime/video games and such with high saturation that dont look life like at all. So it depends on what you are using it with. Having my samsung TV and AMD GPU set well for SDR makes the SDR with HDR disabled look better when playing back HDR movies on netflix or playing HDR games like mass effect andromeda/divinity 2 and so on.

The colour gamut your display can reproduce and the HDR it supports is i'm sorry to say not impressive or good its maybe below the worst AMD will tolerate in their freesync HDR standards i'm guessing as im fairly certain 300ccdm translates to the same number of NITS of HDR peak luminance.

Maybe next time buy a quality quantum dot HDR TV with HDR10 and dolbyvision and dolby atmos and 200hz or more for 1080p. It will also be full resolution 16:9 .. all those gaming monitors cut the height in half then call it "wide" and just give you a handful more hz/fpz possible in return and charge more for the word gaming being on the box its a bad deal man. Research displays before purchasing. If you are stuck on a budget try to grab a second hand or refurbished/repaired TV or display or maybe get one from an auction as people die and their stuff gets auctioned or businesses get liquidated all the time. Criminals seized goods gets sold at police auctions all the time so if u wanna own some stupid criminals stuff he went to prison just to get his hands on for dirt cheap then keep an eye out.

[okadix]

Hello, to be honest, it is my first monitor that I buy, and if it costs me high, the brightness if there are monitors that have more than 350 nit or cd / m2, more however, the monitor looks very good, it will be later to keep those recommendations in mind.

I work with a resolution of 2560 x 1080 (WFHD), at 144HZ, in the games I felt a variation of HZ, so I deactivated the Radeon FreeSync and it always keeps 144HZ, despite not having 400 nits or CD / M2 the monitor it looks excellent

My only problem is when I take screenshots with the cropping tool, or when I stream with AMD ADRENALIN, which basically looks like the photos I attached.

[Anonymous]

If you are using RGB try changing to YCBCR 4:2:0 10bit

But also recording in 10bit HDR may require different software as I said. Plus if you record in HDR you must use HEVC or VP9 version 2 or whatever they're up to now video codec format. Regular mp4 file and codec and xvid/divx/avc will not capture HDR video. special AVC formats from sony or the one on bluray discs AVC1 maybe has a chance of 10bit HDR though I'm not certain. Try using a different video codec when capturing/streaming. You also may want to choose to stream in regular 8bit because not all video sites support HDR 10bit and not everybodys monitor supports HDR 10bit. To make any video to 10bit HDR you just save it first then master it with colour grading software for best results. Though I dont mean do not have a HDR stream, you just need a second regular stream too so everybody can see it.

[okadix]

Hello, Thank you very much for all the responses.

Look, as you can see in the image, I only get the 4: 2: 2 pixel format.

The tools I use to make a streaming is directly from AMD, and to make captures either in the browser, I use the print screen key, it can be compatibility problems by AMD that does not differentiate when HDR is active.

Thank you...

[Anonymous]

In the AMD adrenaline software, try testing out with HEVC for streaming/recording with AMD's software they provide.

You click on the settings gear icon in the top right of the screen then click the word "general" 

then find "recording" and see the video encoding type and select HEVC. HEVC uses half the file size with equal or slightly better quality so its often best to use that. HEVC is one of the few formats that support 10bit video content.

However according to some nvidia sponsored youtubers if you try to make money with HEVC video files you must licence it, since they use it for their jobs/business/work to earn money they have to purchase HEVC codec first. Since its free included with AMD driver software its free to use I think as far as I know. if it needed money to use it then it would be separate and you must buy to unlock it. So go ahead and use it just dont try to sell it or profit from it and should be no issues. I believe AMD already licenced it for anyone probably or they cant use it in their software. But whatever.

[okadix]

Hello, I just changed the configuration to the HEVC video type as you indicate, and not only do I stream for fun, I am not in the least interested in generating income.

I need to do the streaming test to see how it is displayed, take a capture from AMD Adrenalin and it continues to display bright and contrasted, the screen configuration leaves it 4: 4: 4 full rgb, and in 8 bits

[Anonymous]

Thats because your DESKTOP or WINDOWS 10 ISNT HDR MASTERED. you see HDR needs to be created for the HDR colours and brightness levels. or else you could just enable HDR and every game and everything on your entire PC would be HDR. but it doesnt work like that as different cameras and displays have different levels of HDR and movies and games are set by the creator to display the correct levels of brightness and colours to do so it requires a different colourspace. Instead of using RGB (it sucks its not even close to being what we see maybe less than 30% of visible light colours) then adobe SRGB is just like 1080p bluray discs colourspace by coincidence BT809 then theres DCI p3 which is what 4k bluray discs use which is different again. However latest TV's and 4k discs can use BT2020 colourspace which is even higher and covers more than 50% of the visible light spectrum so its actually starting to become startlingly lifelike. Most TV's and displays only produce about 80 to 90% of rec 2020 colourspace in the expensive models but cheap monitors like yours maybe produce considerably less. Anyway with HDR to make it more lifelike, theres "brightness" levels and saturation levels of colour and also by reproducing billions of colours with 10bit colour instead of 16 million things will look dull and washed out and flat if they arent created to use billions of colours. Imagine your windows 10 desktop is painted and when you spread it out more it the paint becomes thin and diluted and then somebody's cranking the brightness up by shining a light behind the painted picture of your desktop. For pictures created to have more light and made with more paint it of course looks perfect but for everything else it kinda sucks. 

So yeah unless a creator created it specifically to adjust brightness and use billions of colours then it can look awful for all regular content. Which is why as I said leave your desktop in 8bit 444 unless you are running a HDR game then toggle HDR on in windows settings and play. If you're normally in 8bit 444 RGB desktop and go to play a movie with your movie player software that supports HDR like daum potplayer or kodi and its a proper 10bit HEVC video file the movie player will automatically output to 10bit for you most of the time as long as you've got it set correctly. so you wont need to change to HDR mode to play back video if you are using fullscreen exclusive mode or d3d11 renderer as playback is now supported in the desktop i believe natively in windows for video.

Try taking screenshots and videos of a HDR GAME or a HDR VIDEO.

Sorry about my misunderstanding i thought you were just showing me the wrong coloured images as quick and easy examples.. Im on medication and mentally ill so you see I've got communication difficulties and can talk to people for the longest time with major miscommunications or misunderstandings all the time it frustrates me just as much as it does you. Sorry I just assume things alot because I know them its like everybody else should have realised this obvious fact when nothing but specific titles are HDR supported.

[okadix]

Hello, I hope you get better...

Look, in the display settings it says that the color space is high dynamic range (HDR).

And in the DxDiag, I exported the information and it says the following:

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT
Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.
Chip type: AMD Radeon Graphics Processor (0x731F)
DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
Device Type: Full Device (POST)
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_731F&SUBSYS_57011682&REV_C1
Device Status: 0180200A [DN_DRIVER_LOADED|DN_STARTED|DN_DISABLEABLE|DN_NT_ENUMERATOR|DN_NT_DRIVER]
Device Problem Code: No Problem
Driver Problem Code: Unknown
Display Memory: 16315 MB
Dedicated Memory: 8151 MB
Shared Memory: 8164 MB
Current Mode: 2560 x 1080 (32 bit) (144Hz)
HDR Support: Supported
Display Topology: Internal
Display Color Space: DXGI_COLOR_SPACE_RGB_FULL_G2084_NONE_P2020
Color Primaries: Red(0.651367,0.332031), Green(0.306641,0.630859), Blue(0.150391,0.059570), White Point(0.313477,0.329102)
Display Luminance: Min Luminance = 0.304500, Max Luminance = 301.000000, MaxFullFrameLuminance = 243.000000
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: 34GL750
Monitor Id: GSM773B
Native Mode: 2560 x 1080(p) (144.001Hz)
Output Type: Displayport External
Monitor Capabilities: HDR Supported (BT2020RGB BT2020YCC Eotf2084Supported )
Display Pixel Format: DISPLAYCONFIG_PIXELFORMAT_NONGDI
Advanced Color: AdvancedColorSupported AdvancedColorEnabled
Driver Name: C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\u0354308.inf_amd64_48534036afa0f0d8\B354265\aticfx64.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\u0354308.inf_amd64_48534036afa0f0d8\B354265\aticfx64.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\u0354308.inf_amd64_48534036afa0f0d8\B354265\aticfx64.dll,C:\WINDOWS\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\u0354308.inf_amd64_48534036afa0f0d8\B354265\amdxc64.dll
Driver File Version: 26.20.15029.27016 (English)
Driver Version: 26.20.15029.27016
DDI Version: 12
Feature Levels: 12_1,12_0,11_1,11_0,10_1,10_0,9_3,9_2,9_1
Driver Model: WDDM 2.6
Graphics Preemption: Primitive
Compute Preemption: DMA
Miracast: Not Supported
Detachable GPU: No
Hybrid Graphics GPU: Not Supported
Power P-states: Not Supported
Virtualization: Paravirtualization
Block List: No Blocks
Catalog Attributes: Universal:False Declarative:False
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 20/04/2020 7:00:00 p. m., 1945712 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp: Unknown
Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-305F-11CF-BA1C-B44D7AC2D735}
Vendor ID: 0x1002
Device ID: 0x731F
SubSys ID: 0x57011682
Revision ID: 0x00C1
Driver Strong Name: oem72.inf:cb0ae414e89a1ab6:ati2mtag_Navi10:26.20.15029.27016:PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_731F&REV_C1
Rank Of Driver: 00CF2000
Video Accel: Unknown
DXVA2 Modes: DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_VLD DXVA2_ModeMPEG2_IDCT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeHEVC_VLD_Main DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_Stereo_Progressive_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeH264_VLD_Stereo_NoFGT DXVA2_ModeVC1_VLD DXVA2_ModeMPEG4pt2_VLD_AdvSimple_NoGMC DXVA2_ModeHEVC_VLD_Main10 DXVA2_ModeVP9_VLD_Profile0 DXVA2_ModeVP9_VLD_10bit_Profile2
Deinterlace Caps: n/a
D3D9 Overlay: Not Supported
DXVA-HD: Not Supported
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled
MPO MaxPlanes: 2
MPO Caps: ROTATION,VERTICAL_FLIP,HORIZONTAL_FLIP,YUV,BILINEAR,STRETCH_YUV,HDR (MPO3)
MPO Stretch: 16.000X - 0.250X
MPO Media Hints: rotation, resizing, colorspace Conversion
MPO Formats:
PanelFitter Caps: ROTATION,VERTICAL_FLIP,HORIZONTAL_FLIP,YUV,BILINEAR,STRETCH_YUV,HDR (MPO3)
PanelFitter Stretch: 16.000X - 0.250X

Everything I have found says you can use HDR without problems, however it takes ugly screenshots except with windows game DVR (Win + G)

[Anonymous]

Think of Mp3 player or bluray player.. You can play back lots of audio files and they work, but bluray player supports dolby atmos 32bit 384khz audio.. If you take your free internet mp3 and play it back on dolby atmos sound system.. It sounds ugly like regular mp3.. why doesnt it sound amazing and dolby atmos surround sound!?!! You can use windows 10 app store dolby access app and make all your windows OS "Spatial Audio" setting set to DOLBY ATMOS. But then every movie and music you play every video game doesnt do dolby atmos it sounds regular and lame and boring. You get latest games maybe 3 or 4 of them have DOLBY ATMOS enable in in game menu settings. You play shadow of tomb raider, or battlefield V or star wars battlefront 2 or borderlands 3 or other game titles that support dolby atmos and enable in in-game settings DOLBY ATMOS SPACIAL AUDIO and you see your atmos receiver decoder light up with the dolby atmos symbol saying its in dolby atmos. So it should sound amazing like your mad max 4 blu-ray or game of thrones 4k blurays of season 8 or regular 1080p bluray of season 7 or 6 which was first bluray release to ever support dolby atmos.. The bluray discs sound amazingly good in dolby atmos 32bit true HD lossless 384khz and the true HD audio tracks maybe have 9 channels of discrete audio but atmos object oriented audio lets it power and drive extra ceiling height speakers with maybe up to 13, or 19 or even 21 speakers with its software processing... The 4k discs are recorded and mastered in high quality and specially mixed and mastered for dolby atmos. it takes days or weeks of work then long time encoding and formatting for it. Like how you FILM and RECORD HDR 10bit video without any colours its dull and flat and capture as much detail as possible in LOGARITHMIC PQ CURVE COMPRESSION to capture more subtle shades and picture so a dark shadow doesnt look solid black but can see dirt or rocks in the shadow. Then the person making 10bit HDR movie uses video editing software and spend hours or days or weeks adjusting colour scene by scene for dynamic metadata HDR or just applies as general a setting as possible for the whole movie at the start with static metadata HDR. They literally add colour into the movie they filmed without colour so it can be seen with colours they want. Action movie they use orange and teal colours to make heros skin tones stand out and pop vividly while background less present. For horror movie in the woods they maybe use some extra cyan colouring to make it feel chilling dark and spooky. They literally create and control all aspects of it including how bright it is for your display so if the sun is shining on a car mirror or car headlights are on highbeam it will look very bright at that point which is how they adjust peak luminance levels. In a game if you make it HDR you must set I want the lasers to be this bright with HDR.. and I want the carvings on the walls in the dark tomb raider tomb to be visible and not just hidden in black so there must be this much light and this much brightness.. You cannot simply open a photo and have it work with your computer and monitor set to 10bit HDR. it doesnt work like that.. Your mp3's aren't dolby atmos.. and your game that are dolby atmos aren't very good at it at all yet and are maybe doing it wrong.. but it'll get better.

Please understand theres false HDR where in photoshop you take a overexposed white photo then a underexposed dark photo and layer the two images together and adjust saturation and it makes a picture with more visible details that looks pretty and sorta blurry because two photos in one.. But thats FAKE HDR false photo editing HDR.. if you wanna take multiple pictures of your desktop with different gamma settings and make a fake HDR photo of your desktop thats blurry and oversaturated then show it off go ahead.. it will look vaguely like what you're seeing with the colours wrong but it doesnt work that way for video real time you cant do it.. But theres video software that lets you re-encode to look like the false HDR look.. Or theres photo editing software like AURORA HDR PHOTO application. If you want your games to LOOK FALSE HDR then use RESHADE FILTERS!

HDR isnt just everything the monitor shows it must be calibrated in editing software by the creator or it doesnt work even if your monitor is set to SHOW HDR CONTENT it needs HDR MASTERED CONTENT. If your windows is set to support dolby atmos output it wont work with dolby atmos with mp3's you MUST HAVE MASTERED ATMOS CONTENT. do you understand? mp3 is not TRUE HD file. h.264/xvid/divx is not H.265 10bit HDR video file format that can support regular 8bit video most of the time unless you use something like davinci resolve and master it into 10bit HDR or film with special cameras and software or its ripped from a 4k bluray or netflix or something that already mastered to 10bit HDR . Its different thing different files different software. mp3 audio isn't blu-ray audio.. but you can play an mp3 in your bluray player can you understand?

[Anonymous]

I had previously with my display in freesync game mode enabled which allows me to select 120hz but once freesync 120hz at 1440p is enabled there is no mode to select 10bit YCBCR. To do so you go to windows 10 display settings and turn HDR on with the toggle there then start your game up with the HDR setting in auto or on. When I toggle HDR on my windows 10 display settings say its still 1440p 120hz. Does this mean freesync doesnt work with HDR 10bit? no you see the latest freesync in our samsung TV's freesync ultimate automatically sets the HDR levels in the display correctly for it and the HDR settings for you to be accurate so the display is calibrated and adjusted by the GPU better for a life like image (FREESYNC ULTIMATE is literally regular freesync basic with HDR settings built into it and slightly better performance minimum specs as original freesync was developed long ago when monitors were really not good and high latency so they had high minimum latency but hardware vendors in present era still pushed out garbage cheap monitors with terrible latency at the minimum to get freesync cert and sold them for years so people mistakenly believed freesync wasnt good while nvidia made people spend thousands on their garbage gsync monitors for even the cheapest ones so they were manufactured better for minimum standards imagine paying twice as much for a monitor for nvidia and it somehow ended up having ever so slightly better specs in general than paying peanuts for the cheapest freesync monitors on the market then telling people freesync isnt good because hardware vendors are lazy or not good enough at implementing VRR/freesync) 

I have played the game with both HDR ON and HDR off and like how it looks with my settings with HDR OFF much better than with HDR ON. I simply compared how it looks with a samsung TV and my colour/picture settings with HDR and without it and decided with HDR off it looks a bit better so i leave HDR off intentionally because if it looks worse to me why turn it on? I prefer vibrant colours my TV and GPU do with HDR off. I watch netflix HDR  with HDR disabled and use my adrenaline saturation levels and my TV source input set to game console for my PC input source then I adjust my picture settings how I like with the TV and have it set to "NATIVE" colourspace and crank the saturation slider. I have no issues getting HDR to work for me. its just when it does work it looks less colourful and more washed out (HDR means more life like and subtle colours and more details in extreme dark blacks or extreme bright whites) So playing lots of content like video games or movies I prefer a more colourful look rather than a duller dimmer look.

However to playback HDR video that was recorded in high bit depth on a very very expensive camera some hundreds of thousands of dollars probably a 8k camera or higher in 12 or 16bit colour captured in LOG format and then using software like davinci resolve like the 4kmedia.org travel with my pet HDR demo video or to play back 4k blu-ray discs with a 4k bluray player the HDR colours look better as its TRUE 10bit HDR CAPTURED CONTENT. So then I set my TV's colourspace to AUTO and enable HDR mode in windows to play it back or use fullscreen exclusive mode so my video player app can play it back. I have no problem enabling HDR. 

If you want to say that gaming in borderless windowed mode makes all your games run faster and look better then yeah it does for some reason. Particularly if you have a different program window active and the game runs in the background its FPS soars super high and it runs properly for once but then clicking on the game window to play slows it down again. When you are alt tabbing or ALT ENTER key you are maybe making it windowed.