So I hope I've posted this in the right forum (apologies if not).
By the looks of it (via google, reddit etc) I'm not the only person who has issues with 'Wattman' crashes. But I'm generally only getting them in one game: Total War: Warhammer 2 (TW:W2)
My system specs are:
OS: Windows 10
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H-CF (AM4)
Graphics card: AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT
Power: Novatech 750W ATX Power Supply
My GPU is currently sitting on about 57c temperature but, when playing TW:W2, generally goes up to about 90c. I've recently bought an EVGA CLC 120 Liquid/Water CPU Cooler that I'll be installing when I get chance to Try and bring the temperature down a bit.
But I'm still getting these Wattman crashes and can't figure out why.
I've used the AMD cleanup utility app to remove previous drivers and reinstalled them again. But I'm no closer to cracking it.
The Windows Reliability History isn't showing anything particularly useful either. Or at least I may not totally be understanding what I'm seeing in there.
Does anyone have any advice for this or tips of what I should be looking for?
Much appreciated if so!
I think your problem is heat. I know 90c is TJ max for the 5000 series cards in general but I found if my VRAM hits 70c, I will crash in minutes. I would try manually setting the card in the Adrenaline overclocking area to "auto", accept the warning. Next click the "undervolt GPU" and write down the voltage. Then set the overclocking to "manual", open up all the settings, fine ones, all of them. Set that voltage in there. Turn off "zero RPM" fan and make the fans run 30% idle, 40%/40c, 60%/50c, 75%/60c, 100% any higher than that. For stability set the power limit to max, it allows more power if the undervolt is too low. None of the settings in that area can go past AMD safe limits. But for the 5700 XT, leave the clocks alone for now. Save that profile by hitting the "gear" icon, "save profile". Hopefully your fans aren't too, loud.
Your temps should now idle around 38c and in game you might hit 56c-60c. That should reduce or stop the crashes. You can also try using the 20.8.3 driver, I found that to be more stable.
Ah brilliant suggestion, thank you!
Yesterday I used a DDU to wipe away old Radeon version just in case there was a conflict between them, so I'll try the game shortly and see what happens.
If that doesn't work then I'll use your plan of toggling the settings to deal with the temperature.
Hopefully it will only need to be a short-term thing because installing my AIO should then also help keep it cooler.
Are you overclocking your RAM?
If so , set the RAM to default speed in the BIOS.
Run MemTest86 at boot from a USB stick.
Then Karhu RAM Test in Windows (you will have to buy it).
Adrenalin Drivers crash easily if there are RAM issues.
Thanks, no problem.
You can read this thread about it.
I have been running 64GB of Corsair VRAM on Ryzen 2700X @ 4.3GHz and ASUS ROG Crosshair Hero VII at "theoretical limit" for some time now. I still use my own custom BIOS settings but ASUS did put stability improvements into BIOS for Corsair RAM.
I tend to only use those settings when trying to beat the latest AMD 3D Mark Scoreboard (currently missing on this forum). Or when pushing GPU performance tests.
I run at stock CPU, RAM, GPU speeds for AMD bug reporting and running the PC day to day.
1. Which version of windows are you using?
Are you completely up to date with patches?
Type winver at the command line.
2. What is your GPU Power Slider set to?
3. If you are ok to play at 60FPS then another thing you could try is to turn on Radeon Chill to save max power possible.
Set your monitor refresh rate to 60Hz at the resolution you need.
Set Chill_Min = 30. Chill_Max = 300. Turn off in game VSync.
Set frame rate limiter to refresh rate (60 Hz). if it is in the game if it is available.
You can set Alt+W as the Hotkey or similar so it is ergonomic to turn chill on or off when gaming, rather than using F11.
Download latest version of stand alone RivaTuner to clamp FPS to monitor refresh rate.
Turn on FreeSync.
That should give you overall power saving and cooler GPU.
FPS will drop to 30 when no keyboard/mouse input.
You will likely complain that the Keyboard Only Input FPS (i.e. holding down WASD key etc) will be about 56 FPS rather than 60FPS, and it takes too long for FPS to ramp up to 60.)
It is also possible to clamp mouse movement to 30 FPS to save even more power.
I can tell you how to fix that problem if Chill is beneficial to you or if you are prepared to try it out.
I am out of time to do any more response to your question today.
I forgot to ask about the temp you're reading, is it CPU or GPU or both? The AIO will help with the CPU only. You need a custom loop cooler system with a GPU plate to liquid cool the card, which is expensive. The GPU plate is like $300 alone. Besides from my research, liquid cooling these cards offers little to no improvement in temps due to the voltage being set so high from the factory. It would alleviate fan noise though.
90c on the CPU won't cause a Wattman crash. The CPU will increase fan speed and throttle it's voltage/speed to try to hold that temp from going above 90c(Tj max on most Ryzen's). 90c on the GPU might cause a Wattman crash, even though that is also in the "acceptable" range. With the AIO you'll find the CPU running around 27c-70c after hard gaming. It takes longer for the CPU temp to come down after gameplay or stress on liquid since the coolant heat soaks, so don't be alarmed that the CPU hangs at 50c or so for a few minutes.
A good air cooler works faster all day long but there's fan noise. Tons of hype over AIO's, I have one/had one for years thinking it makes all this difference and it does only in decibels. Air coolers wick heat off a surface much faster, unless you run liquid nitrogen or cool the radiator itself with a bucket of ice, lol. Make sure you top mount the radiator or mount the rad tubes at the bottom if front mounting to avoid air pockets. Side mounting the radiator it would need to be tubes down(vertical). Bottom of the case flat, pump off the CPU, is a no-no. The AIO's never come 100% full, so you want the tubes submerged all the time. Top mounting is the best with fans pushing out. Front mounting with the tubes up is popular and wrong, only half or less of that top tank has liquid in it, air rises. Size, stick with a 240-280mm, they are most efficient. I think you picked yours out already so mounting is the last part. Brand wise they all work about the same.
The settings I referred to apply to the GPU only and I would still make those adjustments regardless knowing what I do now after months of aggravation with my setup. Why AMD has the voltage set so high is beyond me. Perhaps it's to cover other brands with higher clocks, all I know is it's excessive no matter what and doesn't help stability. Example is my card says to run the VRAM at 1860, it doesn't like that at all. I can set the power to anything and it will green screen at some point but at 1.05mv(max limit), it does it in minutes of stress. At 960mv it holds for an hour maybe more. So that's factory limit voltage increasing instability. Lowering it improved the stability but the card just can't take that setting at any voltage. It's like the CPU says 4.4 max boost but in reality you'll find it hitting 4.3 or 4.2 if you have a decently binned CPU. Increasing CPU voltage in BIOS won't help but will make more heat.
Like I said in that overclocking area of Adrenaline you can set all to max and not toast the card. AMD won't let you nor will the card's BIOS. They have hard coded limits set that can't be overridden by software. For your card, the max voltage and fan curve are the two most important things to address to lower GPU temps and you'll find a few FPS in there too by not thermal throttling. Every card is different as far as how much clock they will handle and the 5700 XT really is fine at stock clocks but they all have 2 things in common, voltage too high and at least take the "zero RPM" off the fan.
Drivers are another thing, find a stable one and keep it unless the newer driver has a feature you want/need. Read the release notes and weigh the fixes vs. the known issues to see if the change is worth it. Most of the time it's not. For me 20.5.2 was great but I went with 20.8.3 for 8-10 more FPS, same stability. The driver that's best for you may be different than me or what AMD just put out.
Glad DDU helped you out, that's an official AMD recommendation I got a few years ago with my R9390. They do have a version of it included in the Adrenaline setup where it has a box to check "factory reset". How good it works compared to DDU, don't know. I stick with DDU. Like the other poster said RAM can cause an issue, even set at stock with a Ryzen system. If you always had problems, look at that and check the motherboard site's QVL to see if your RAM is listed as compatible. If not, it's not the end of the world. I used DRAM CALC from Ismus to find good settings for my 3733 RAM. Go with the "safe" settings for "bad bin" and then run Memtest 64 (I paid for it, like $10), free version is ok but not as thorough. Even one failure during that test means your settings or a stick is bad. DRAM CALC has a test too and the same thing applies, one failure is no good. So if your RAM is on the QVL and has errors at stock settings, you would indeed have a RAM failure of some kind.
I doubt that's the case but since the other poster mentioned RAM, I tossed that in. Sorry for the rest, I like to be thorough.
Ah this is all incredibly useful; thanks!
Yeah the AIO is a CPU cooler but I'm hoping it'll bring general temperature down and I'll also then get chance to check the other fans in there when I open it up.
But your plan of using the underclock speed as the overclock guideline sounds good to me.
I'll need to roll back to a previous version of Adrenaline as I'm currently up to date and can't turn the 'zero fan RPM' setting off (why on earth would that be locked in?).
Once I've done that I'll set the settings to max and set up a new fan/temperature curve and see what happens.
Thanks very much!