To fix your problem, ensure your RAM is set to 1866 or 1600mhz or whatever lowest it lets you manually and disable XMP leave it on AUTO and manually set your mhz to 1/4 or half perfect division for infinity fabric like say 933 for 1866mhz.. then set your CAS lower accordingly try for the DRAM timing info listed for 1866mhz which should work. then consider slightly lowering from 13 or 11 or whatever if you paid for expensive RAM and it should be stable at CAS8 if you paid a premium on X570 or x670 or x470 board (x470 is 150% the overclocking of B450 in the minimum board specs) set your voltage for your auto stable super low latency RAM that games millions times faster to whatever its stupid XMP profile wanted it to be before you boot or it wont have enough power to boot. DISABLE GEARDOWN MODE and command rate 1T. ensure you have secureboot enabled and are running windows with ALL EXPLOIT PROTECTION games with anticheat (which core isolation makes obsolete) wont rootkit into your PC's core memory anymore so some dodgy apps maybe wont work no more but you can always add an exception to the filepath manually. its in windows 10/11 device security. So core isolation and memory integrity on. In your bios enable PBO (its not really an overclock it just uses less base clock and more boost clock)
try doing these things after resetting the bios (or updating it agesa improves performance every 6 months or so by about up to 6% or more to allow for newer CPU's in same boards with AMD)
set your multiple monitors to same refresh rate and ideally same resolution and if its just for an AV receiver clone the output rather than extend. check it isnt a freesync or VRR issue and some applications particularly video players need to be set to fullscreen exclusive mode or capped FPS. if you play a 23.96fps movie or a 30fps movie.. strangely 144hz displays are lousy glitchy buggy crashy.. so you would need to enable enhanced sync and vsync in the movie player or some form of vsync like stuff or the windows OS by type it into a config.ini text file and or registry. vsync, vertical sync all the ways you spell it, probably going to work followed by true/enabled/on or whatever.
the asus gpu's had an issue where the thermal pad application and installing of final heat sink securing screws had the wrong screws or 'not been screwed in' and were loose on some models probably criminals trying to steal all the GPU cores or any expensive cache or quality components then not bother close it back up. You can try unscrewing the heatsink and check its properly contacting your thermal pads and the heatsink and that its screwed on secure or get some metal ring washer discs and screw back in with a bunch of them as padding to tighten the fit or some other means of padding the screw more full/secure if thats the issue.
vulkan titles in particular need to often cap FPS in game menus to 120fps rather than unlimited depending on whether the game devs are beating up the OS and graphics card makers with their "im way smarter than the people making the hardware and created my own worse and dumber far far slower and more crashy buggy glitchy software method of outputting frames and delaying/caching or buffering them for my own **bleep**ty post processing and spyware capturing" or its just sometimes all 3 of them turning on the important stuff.
the TPM stuff as in thermal power management? or do you mean fTPM the CPU security that you should always have enabled except the moment before you update the bios it asks you to turn it off?
or did you mean the secure boot and the secure boot protocol TPM2.0? you need TPM2.0 set in the device security and also have to disable fastboot/CSM compatability boot mode and enable resizeable bar, probably wanna turn on PCIE 4.0 or 5.0 and enable above4g decoding? install the latest 22.8 optional. I game on them with no issues but many games and apps all need different settings and things.
use the adrenaline profiles and add apps and games and configure them individually rather than global.
also you almost always only ever need antilag and possibly enhanced sync in global settings but enhanced sync should be off first to test if you need it or not. if its tearing/wobbly enable it also if theres excessive judder when panning video scenes maybe.
DO NOT INSTALL MSI afterburner i repeat DO NOT INSTALL MSI afterburner. simply use the AMD adrenaline drivers or if you need more install ryzen master or your MAINBOARD overclocking software utility. DO NOT USE MSI afterburner.
my truelight based ryzen 5700G and 5700xt quantum supercomputer with additive light with real mathematically precise wavelengths/waveforms and trueaudio.. with all the colours of the rainbow..
is suuuper frigging awesome when reality simulating. trust me i just watched the buzz light year movie on disney plus streaming service. when its realtime rendering and applying realtime lighting and quality and materials and rendering options as it re-renders and reanimates the computer graphics in realtime the same way it does for youtube and netflix or all light based content especially video games.. it looks amazing!
this is a steam screenshot of a directx11 game with my NON rtx card at 1080p. if i had RDNA 2 i could be running same fps in 4k. no upscaling.
whats causing your issues though im fairly certain is the multimonitors outputs or something. if you are using displayport or using hdmi and have another monitor you must NOT use a adaptor that changes one port type to another. this disabled freesync and adds massive delays instability they often cost a heap for anything with an active signal converter while massively reducing quality and tend to die and stop working in a short while.
if you have displayport monitor use displayport on the card, if you use one display port device from the card, anything else you connect must be displayport. if you wanted to connect a heap of HDMI devices to an AMD card, many asrock was it cards models seem to have like 6 or 8 or was it 12 hdmi ports? i dunno they just covered the entire rear. but maybe that was the 5700xt. hard to say.
run SFC.exe /scannow as admin in terminal/powershell or commandprompt. then run DISM.exe /online /cleanup-image /scanhealth then DISM.exe /online /cleanup-image /checkhealth DISM.exe /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
maybe consider resetting your windows install.. if youv'e a bunch of steam games downloaded back em up to usb or move from programfiles to C: then just reset the windows install not wipe entire drive.
if you have a virus maybe consider secure erasing in bios as well as clr cmos jumper pin with it unplugged.
you shouldnt ever need to overclock your quantum super computer from AMD more than the defaults if you do buy a factory OC card and then you not need to overclock jobs done by third parties. air cooling is all you need liquid cooling gets you how much percent more? its not worth the effort and cost and instability..
JUST FYI *IMPORTANT!!* if you bought an overpriced ultrawide load of cheap nasty veritcally cut in half monitor called an ultrawide monitor meant for cheap mass production for dirt cheap to buy up monitors for entire offices and companies for word processing. Well sucks to be you, because its veritcally half the panel, when it says 2160p (4k) you want 4k you dont do 4k.. you select 1440p.. literally.. i cant say this enough. its not 4k its 1440p panel. if you wanted 1080p that means your gaming in 720p. Also multiple monitors or enabling HDR means the bandwidth gets used up more.. so resolutions you can do with a single display in higher quality.. you maybe cant hit anymore. When i set my 4k120hz 420 display 2.0b hdmi to full RGB 444 12bit HDR with 10bit displaypanel output 120hz i cant reach 1440p with HDMI 2.0b the bandwidth caps out for all 2.0b cards with full true rgb and full bitdepth and colour at 120hz at 1080p. you cant even upscale past it, if you try it will say 8bit with dithering. or or will change to lame 420 chroma.
SO try setting your displays all to 8bit maybe you dont have a 10bit or its got sorta cheaper falser hdr..
often cheaper panels that dont cost closer to $1-2000 TV's have such terrible 400nits hdr instead of 4000 or 2000 .. that its worse when you turn HDR on.. you're better off gaming in SDR with the software autohdr stuff and the tv autohdring your content with its image enhancements and processor. set your resolution 720p and 8bit then try with a single display.. see if issue still occurs. also make sure antivirus and stuff not an issue.
