So I recently Purchased a RX 7600 and it has been having the same issue over and over again.
So I have been getting a lot of cases where all three of my monitors blackout and then turn on again, then I get a message that says that my GPU's drivers timed out.
I asked this too the MSI forums as the brand is MSI and someone said it might be a PSU issue and that I might not be getting enough power, but I checked and I only need a 550w PSU in order to run the GPU even according to the MSI website it said 550w is minimum and they tested it with a much newer and more powerful CPU. The RX 7600 is a relatively new card and a couple of my friends think it's just a driver issue and that it will get fixed as the drivers get updated but I don't really know.
SPECS
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CPU: Ryzen 7 2700x
CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism
GPU: MSI RX 7600 MECH
Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX
PSU: EVGA 55 BP 80+
RAM: 4x8gb Corsair Vengence LPX DDR4
Storage: Samsung 870 Evo 120gb SSD, Samsung 870 Evo 500gb SSD, WD Blue 1TB, WD Blue 2TB
Monitors: Acer Nitro 60hz gaming monitor X 2, MSI 144hz Gaming monitor
Solved! Go to Solution.
Get a 650wtt 80+ Gold rated PSU from a reputable brand .. check hardware reviews before purchasing anything
Make sure your motherboard's BIOS is up to date
Make sure you have the latest AM4 chipset drivers installed from AMD.com
Originally I thought that it was because I had to many apps running but further testing shows that even just having Chrome open can cause it too happen, even on 2 and 1 monitors plugged in it happens
Did you try them AMD cleanup utility to remove the drivers and reinstall them? Or if you're coming from an Nvidia GPU, did you use DDU to remove the Nvidia drivers completely and then install the AMD drivers? I also believe the 7000 series have their own specific set of drivers, too.
I did a complete reset of my PC initially to as I thought my Nvidia drivers were not properly uninstalled, after the reset I went to AMD's website and downloaded the exact drivers required for the RX 7600, and the problem still persisted. I'll try people's recommendations tonight.
Thank you.
You don't state if you are running Windows 10 or 11, but either way, ensure you have the latest Windows updates, as I think I saw some multi-monitor fixes in 1 or 2 updates recently. As @GreatnessRD has posted, it is also a good idea to check the AMD drivers, as Microsoft has a nasty habit of installing what it thinks is the best WHQL certified ones, that are often NOT the latest or best. Turning off MS driver updates to stop this is NOT straightforward, having seen posts on that.
Get a 650wtt 80+ Gold rated PSU from a reputable brand .. check hardware reviews before purchasing anything
Make sure your motherboard's BIOS is up to date
Make sure you have the latest AM4 chipset drivers installed from AMD.com
Got a new PSU today an MSI 650 80+ gold and works like a charm not a single display driver reset.
First off, best of luck, I have an XFX RX 5700 that has never worked right. I get random crashes, freezes, driver timeouts, etc since adding that card. I figured that surely, there would be a driver fix or I'd be able to figure out what was causing it. Nope. I work in tech support and know what I'm doing and I've spent countless hours trying to fix it, researching the issue, learning about extremely obscure software settings and hardware parameters (on top of all the ones I already knew) and it's still busted. Here I am still trying to fix it years later. I really regret not returning or RMA'ing it.
There's a million things it could be and you could try them all and it still might not work. I don't have time to walk you through everything, but I'd figure out now how much time you really want to spend on this because the rabbit hole is deep. There does appear to just be something glitchy with AMD hardware/drivers and certain multi-monitor setups, they've stated this in driver patch notes, without saying exactly what that is. Maybe because they don't really know, I'm not sure.
From what I gather there are problems with certain combinations of monitors, particularly with different resolutions and refresh rates, and the way the Windows Display architecture interacts with them, that causes complications for video cards and drivers. I'm not saying that's your issue, but it could be, and if so it might not be a quick fix, or be fixable at all.
One thing I have seen people say seemed to fix this kind of issue, specifically on those MSI B450 motherboards, is going into the BIOS and changing the PCIE slot version to PCIE 3, instead of AUTO. I don't know why this matters, it should work fine on AUTO, but I've seen multiple people say this resolved their issue. That's the first thing I'd try.
I've seen some people say disabling ULPS (by changing registry keys) fixed their crashing issue after nothing else did. Again, not sure why this works, it shouldn't matter, but obviously there's some compatibility issue on certain systems. But it's another easy setting to change so worth a try before you get too deep elsewhere. Just google it.
But it could be something more conventional, here's some other basic stuff to consider:
Everyone will tell you to first do a clean driver install. There's an option for it in the driver install dialogue itself, or AMD has a "AMD Cleanup Utility", but I'd probably opt to download the software "DDU" as it's probably the most comprehensive and will uninstall any extraneous video related drivers that exist on yours sytem. There are instructions on how to do this all over the place, just google "DDU instructions". Before you do the clean up, download the video drivers that you're going to want to install later.
Cables & Connectors - Even if it's "working", sometimes a video cable or video connector or adapter can be an issue. Maybe there's something wrong with it, maybe it's poor quality, a bad connection, maybe it's an old HDMI 1.0 cable and doesn't support the newer, faster standards, or whatever, but cable issues can cause communication/signal problems which could cause crashes. It's worth swapping out with other cables you might have around just to test, or buying some verified "good" quality cables. There are some lists of higher quality cable vendors online, these aren't expensive, just some vendors make better quality products than others.
Don't rule out your Power Supply as a potential culprit. Even if it's technically powerful enough, at 550 watts and only 80% efficiency, it's really only supplying 440 watts and that is getting really close to what your system might need to run under load. Just the parts you listed shows as 424W when I add them all to PC Part Picker, which doesn't account for anything else plugged in (keyboards, mice, webcam, wifi, extra lights and fans, etc.), so it could be maxed out. The other thing to consider is the quality of the power supply. Some models and vendors are more reliable. I don't know about your particular model, but I've seen another discussion about a similar crashing problem and someone pointed them to a review of their EVGA power supply showing that it tested as having inconsistent voltage on some cables, which could definitely cause crashing. And just a note - If you do swap out for another power supply, don't just use the existing power supply cables that are in your system, they're not necessarily compatible. Different power supplies can have different pin configurations for the cables and connectors. Always use the cables that came with the power supply to ensure compatibility, otherwise it might not work, or worse, you may cause damage to some of your components.
That's all I got in me for now, whew, good luck on your search!
@tjerino : You provided a lot of good suggestions for @TBRyzer to try. One thing I would like to mention is your reference to the 80% efficiency rating of the PSU. That rating really means that 20% of your power conversion (to 12V and other voltages) is going up in heat. It doesn't mean that a 550 Watt rated PSU is only going to put out 440 Watts. It should put out the 550 Watts it is rated at.
Another misconception some people have is that a higher rated PSU (say 1200 Watts) is going to put out 1200 Watts all day long - running up your electricity bill. That's not correct. The PSU will put out the power required for the given load - which changes as we go from an idle system to one running an intense game or otherwise under a higher load. If you have two PSUs, one rated at 700 W and one rated at 1000 Watts, at a given efficiency rating (say 80%) , then they should both dissipate a similar amount of heat (which is lost power) under the same load. The 1000 Watt PSU has more headroom and can more easily handle spikes in current draw from the load, as what might happen when a video card has extreme demands placed upon it during an intense gaming sequence.
Thanks yall for all the help, turns out the PSU was just too weak. Upgraded it today, runs great.