PC Building

[shamim512]

I recently built a PC and expiencing freezes during light tasks like watching YouTube or handling small tasks. I've tried reinstalling Windows and updating all the drivers, but the problem persists. Here are my specs: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 CPU, Zotac RTX 4070 Super GPU, 32 GB DDR5 Kingston Fury Beast RAM, MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI motherboard, DeepCool AK400 Digital cooler, and a DeepCool DQ750M-V3L Full Modular 750W 80 PLUS Gold power supply. Has anyone else faced similar issues or have suggestions on how to resolve this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Note: when i turn on my pc EZ Debug LED CPU and DRAM light gets on for few sec then windows bootup it goes. also when my pc got freezed then it restart again that time only dram light got up and its yellow.

[FunkZ]

What is the memory part number? Is it on the motherboard QVL?

Does it support XMP or EXPO? Do you have either enabled? Have you tried disabling?

[shamim512]

I have installed my RAM in the B2 and A2 slots, and I have tried both the XMP profile and EXPO, but nothing changes. I have also tried using a single RAM stick, but the result is the same; it always freezes. Then I switched to the default setting, but the result was the same; I couldn't find where the problem is.

[FunkZ]

When you state, "I switched to the default setting", do you mean you tried the memory without XMP or EXPO enabled? (using SPD speed/timings)

I did not see a response to "What is the memory part number? Is it on the motherboard QVL?"

[BigAl01]

It does sound like a memory problem, as @FunkZ is suggesting.  See what you can do with your current memory sticks, like switching the sticks in their slots, or even trying the other set of slots.  Go with default settings until you get the system running in a stable way.

[shamim512]

I have tried all the options but couldn't solve this issue. I've tested both sticks in different slots and also tried with a single RAM, but both attempts failed. I've changed the RAM profile, and when that didn't work, I set it to auto, but still no luck. Whenever it freezes, it requires a restart, and then the DRAM light illuminates for a few seconds before Windows boots up again. I even tried booting Windows without any RAM to see what would happen, and the motherboard still showed the DRAM light. i dont know, is it normal??

[BigAl01]

The DRAM, VGA and CPU lights typically light up during the boot process and then they go out as the computer is about ready to boot into the operating system.  If your lights go out and you get into Windows successfully each time, I would try to update the BIOS of the motherboard next.  You want to do this when you are reasonably sure the computer isn't going to lock up (freeze) during the update process.

So first, check the MSI website and download the latest BIOS update for your motherboard.  Then copy the extracted file to a USB stick and then I recommend you perform the BIOS update while in the BIOS during the initial boot (prior to Windows).  I think it's called EZ Flash or something like that in the BIOS.

[shamim512]

I understand that AM5 is meant to train memory, and all motherboards have this feature that's why debug light up, but I'm confused because when I remove all the RAM, it still shows DRAM. Why is that? I've already updated my BIOS to the latest version, but it didn't solve my problem. What are your thoughts on which parts could cause this issue? It has had this issue from the beginning, so I thought a BIOS update could fix it, but it didn't.

[shamim512]

Here are my Event Viewer errors from the last 24 hours.

[BigAl01]

Those are error messages for in improper shutdown.  

Did you clear the CMOS after doing the BIOS update?  The proper way is to pull the power plug with the system off, remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes, and then install it again.  Give that a try.

[shamim512]

i did scanned as you said but no error message, what should i do next ?

[BigAl01]

I would seriously look into swapping out the PSU with a known good one.  Given your system, I recommend a PSU of at least gold rating and with 850 Watts.  Personally, I would get a 1K Watt unit.  Your current PSU might not be able to handle the load well, dropping voltages and such to where some components fail to function properly.

Do you have another PSU you can try?

[shamim512]

I don't have an extra PSU, but the one I have is a Deepcool 750W Gold PSU. I thought it would be sufficient for a 7700 and Zotac 4070 Super. Which brand of PSU would you recommend? If swapping the PSU can solve this problem, I will swap it. However, I have a warranty on this one since I just built this PC about 7 days ago. I have to inform the shop that some of my components aren't getting enough power from this PSU, correct? Is that the issue?

[shamim512]

I played Fortnite for 20 minutes and recorded the HWinfo data. Could you check it to see if it's normal or if there are any errors? While playing a single match, there was no lag or stuttering, but I'm not well-versed in power/voltage ratios. Could you examine it for me? If anything is abnormal, it would help me convince the shop that the PSU is the faulty product.

[BigAl01]

From these temperatures, I think your whole system is running on the warm side.  Improving the cooling is the first step.  Then focus on the PSU.

What sort of case do you have?  Can you show us a picture of it and the cooling fans inside?  Are you ingesting outside air from the front and bottom, and expelling the warmed air out the back and top?

[shamim512]

I am utilizing the ARESZE Ghost One M-ATX case with three CF120 PLUS fans at the top as intake and one at the bottom as an exhaust fan. I was advised that having three intake fans and one exhaust fan would ensure good airflow within the case. Additionally, I am employing the AK 400 Digital as the CPU cooler.

[BigAl01]

Now I understand why your system is running hot.  There is no air intake in the bottom of your case.  The air intake from the front panel is covered and controlled by your PSU, which itself is exhausting warm air into your case (at the top I believe - but you have partially blocked the PSU exhaust with a fan controller).  The GPU is cooking down below, dealing with the warm air trapped at the bottom.  Your top 3 fans are fighting mother nature - warm air rises and you are instead trying to pull outside air down into a warm air environment.  The CPU fan is dealing with the warm PSU air to cool the heatsink and the rear fan is the only thing pulling warm air out of the case.  In my opinion, this case is a very bad design for keeping a system cool.  The worst aspect is the placement of the PSU itself.  The second worst aspect is the lack of air intake on the bottom.

I have some suggestions if you must use this case, but my best recommendation is to replace that case with a bigger one that has room for the PSU on the bottom (below the motherboard) or on top (above the motherboard).

You will need to  do some modding.  If you go forward with some or all of these suggestions, then please post the process in our Red Team Modders group.  Here we go:

(1)  Pull all the components out of the case.  Remove the bottom panel and drill 20-50 1/4" holes in it that will allow air to be pulled into the case.  If possible, cut a hole for a 120mm fan and mount it as an intake fan below your GPU.  I think you have room for it.  This step should greatly help bring cool air into the case for your GPU.  Most of the holes should be under the GPU, as your PSU power cables will block airflow from holes closer to the front.

(2)  Reverse the direction of your three top fans - you want them pulling air out of the case.  This includes the warm air coming out of the PSU.

(3)  Mount your fan controller in another place - do not block the PSU airflow.

(4)  Leave the rear fan as an exhaust fan, pulling air out of the case, just like the top three fans.  Consider adding a second CPU fan to pull air in the same direction as the other CPU fan - air flowing towards the rear of the case.

That should help with airflow in this case.  Step 1 is the most important one.  If you cannot drill the holes or cut the hole for the 120mm fan, then just remove that bottom panel entirely and tie the PSU cables to themselves so they don't fall below the bottom of the case.

[BigAl01]

It's not just a power delivery issue with PSUs, but also how stable the voltage is that they supply.  Cheaper PSUs don't have the ability to hold the voltage levels to close tolerances, and hence the voltage may fluctuate as the load changes (loads change quite a bit when the GPU is ramping up for gaming).  As for a brand, I have bought and tried many brands over the years.  I like 'be quiet!', 'Cooler Master', 'ANTEC', 'Corsair', 'Thermaltake', 'Super Flower', 'NZXT'  and even 'EVGA'.  Stay away from off brands coming from China.  I don't think 'Deepcool' is known as a quality PSU.

[shamim512]

Switching from the Deepcool 750 Gold to the Corsair 850 gold will suffice for your system?  also, I took my system to the builder, and they sent it for warranty service. They suggested that the motherboard or CPU might be causing the issue, which is why they sent its parts for warranty. Once they confirm the fault, they will provide a replacement.

[BigAl01]

I suggest you deal with the airflow problems that your case is giving you.  See the above posting.  After that, consider swapping out the PSU.  

[shamim512]

ok brother .

[shamim512]

I've changed my CPU case. What do you think about the airflow system of this case? Is it good enough with a 5-intake and 5-exhaust system, or do I need to change the fan layout?

i have changed my pc case , can you look at my cpu fans  is it good??

[BigAl01]

I like that case much better, but you still have some fans reversed.  Remember that with normal fans, faces 'suck', meaning that the side with the frame is the exhaust.  They do make special (extra cost) reverse flow fans, but I'm talking normal fans here.  So, you have two fans apparently above your PSU cover that are sucking air into the case from the bottom.  That's good.  But, then you have another fan fighting that by trying to pull air out of the case at the bottom/front.  That fan should be reversed.  The three fans on the side (next to the motherboard) are fine, because they are sucking air out of the case.  But on the top, you again have all three fans trying to pull air into the case, instead of pulling the warm air out of the case.  All three should be reversed.  Finally, the CPU fan and the fan at the back are correct - they will blow air across the heatsink and out the back of the case.  

It's hard to determine what openings are on the bottom of the case, but I'm assuming there are ventilation holes.  I cannot see the PSU, but I'm assuming it's in that cover that the two fans are mounted to on the bottom.  Overall, you want to pull air in from the bottom and out through the top.  In your case, you cannot pull air in from the front (due to the glass cover), but you can pull air either into our out of the side.  You chose to pull air out on the side.  Think of it like a chimney, where the fire in this case is the GPU and CPU.  You wouldn't want to blow air into your chimney at the top, right?  You would want that hot air to leave the top of the chimney.

[shamim512]

Okay, I will reverse the top fans to make them exhaust, but will three intake fans be sufficient?

[BigAl01]

I depends on how many ventilation holes are in the bottom;  give it a try, and if things are still a bit warm, reversed the three fans on the side to pull air into the case.  You definitely want to pull warm air out of the case at the top though.