Processors

[oark]

CPU: 7950X 
M.B: Aorus B650e Master

RAM: F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR (6000Mhz CL 30) 

Tried CMOS and Bios updated.

Video after CMOS: Video LINK
notice very bad coil whine coming from the CPU.

[MADZyren]

7000-series CPUs do not need BIOS update to work. Every AM5 board can run them.

I don't think CPUs can produce coil while. Motherboard VRM, powersupplies and VRMs of GPUs produce this.

You did not really say much, so can't tell what the situation is, but what if you just make sure everything is plugged in, turn power on and wait for a while. First boot with Ryzen 7K takes a long time.

[oark]

GPU unplugged and recorded the sound from PSU and CPU area, Coil whine coming from the CPU side.

Sometimes when reach windows and run Cinebench r23, I got instant crash with CPU led turn on as shown in image above.

[misterj]

oark, CPU draws more current than probably any component and could definitely produce whine. If you can run Ryzen Master (RM), please post a screenshot, then start Cinebench R23 and post a SS. Thanks and enjoy, John.

EDIT: What was the final value on the Hex display?

[Earnhardt]

Coil Whine from a CPU 

[oark]

Sorry

Coil whine coming from from AIO Pump after I lowered the AIO Pump speed.

Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix 360

[MADZyren]

EDIT: Did not notice that long post about settings before. I am reading from smart phone, so there is that.

Orig. Post before seeing that:

"AIO pump does to either have components that cause coil whine. Sounds like a pump running, though through recording it is difficult to say. 

So the next question is, how are the CPU temps? Maybe AIO is defective and perhaps pump can't move water at all.

Also did you make a fresh Windows installation for this build, or used an old Windows installation from previous build?

Since you have numerical error codes, what does your manual say, do you have an error code after bootup or if unable to boot all the way?"

What if you set everything to default and clear cmos. I simply enabled XMP and set curve optimizer (after testing) to negative eighteen and get about 38000 points with an air cooler and slow RAM.

[elstaci]

Both @MADZyren & @Earnhardt are correct.

The link that Earnhardt posted explain very clearly why.

CPUs are all solid Integrated electronic parts. The Coil whine you are hearing is most likely coming from your Motherboard's VRM parts which has coils capacitors and other electronic parts.

Basically Coil whine occurs generally in High powered hardware like the GPU, PSU, & Motherboard's VRM circuitry.

There is not much you can do about coil whine except RMA the hardware if it is really loud or annoying.

NOTE: Looked at your video and if you noticed the Mobo's VRM is either at the top or bottom of the CPU.

By the way could the noise be coming from a noisy Waterblock Pump from your AIO CPU Cooler?

EDIT: As Madryzen explained you need to give more detail of your issue. Is the PC booting into Windows and crashing down under heavy loads or just that it doesn't go past POST?

CPU Trouble light could be an issue with your RAM or CPU.

What temperature was the CPU when it crashed and the CPU Trouble light came on? It possibly overheated due to an improper installation or defective AIO CPU Cooler.

[oark]

I bought the components from Amazon but before I send them back to refund I still don't know what is the problem and which part is the issue, for now send my PC to local maintenance.

What happened:

A) If I keep CCX0 Multiplayer to Auto and CCX1 to 20 ( Default for both was Auto 45)

B) If I Set CCX0 Multiplayer to 20 and Keep CCX1 to Auo

C) If I Set CCX0 and CCX1 to 40

Option A and B: CPU was stable in Cinebench R23 with score around 21K

Option C: CPU was not stable but at least was able to do Cinebench one time before it crash.

Same results with EXPO off or on with single ram or both rams installed.

CPU temp is perfect and all other temps.

Power Supply is the funny part:

A) New: Seasonic PRIME TX-1000 1000W 80+ Titanium

B) EVGA G2 1000 W 80+ Gold

C) Huntkey Green 550W ( Only has one 8 Pin CPU)

Power Supply A and B give same results as above. - I tried one 8 Pin CPU or 16 Pin CPU connected

Power Supply C  PC turned off instantly when I run Cinebench R23

so changed bios settings to: PPT: 142000 , TDC: 110000 and EDC: 170000 ( Settings taken from OC3D.net)

I was able to run Cinebench R23 for 45 minutes with score 35K - Using Power Supply C (Huntkey 550 W)

then turned off the PC and call it a win. - I said finally tomorrow going finish my build.

I did clean shutdown and finished stress test using Power Supply C,

But I was not able to do the same settings with Power Supply A and B instant freeze with CPU led turned on as always.

I plugged back Power Supply C just to make sure then tested for 15 minutes was perfectly sable and fine so I did clean shutdown and finished stress test in that day.

Next day I thought the power supply is the issue but I was not able to reach the windows in any power supply.

How I was able to run  Cinebench R23 for 45 minutes using Power Supply C  (Huntkey 550W) then in next day nothing worked still no idea.

[oark]

I Just gave up!

[elstaci]

I read you can still get a refund for your Processor and Motherboard. That may be the best course of action but you might want to open a AMD SUPPORT - WARRANTY ticket to see if they believe you processor is defective or not by linking this thread: https://www.amd.com/en/support/contact-email-form

But if your Return date from Amazon will expire within a few days then it is best to return it before the Return date ends.

I had a similar problem when I upgraded to a AM4 PC that I built. After numerous hours of troubleshooting I couldn't figure out if the processor or motherboard was defective. So I ended up returning both back to Amazon including my RAM (One stick the RGB wasn't working so to eliminate defective RAM I also returned it).

I got a new Processor and RAM Replacement and I ordered a different Motherboard. Everything was working normally after that.

NOTE: I was a little bit nervous about the huge amount of money that I returned to Amazon for Refund or Replacement.

Amazon has a policy that if you make too many returns they can deactivate your Amazon account. I read if Amazon start losing money due to your Returns they will deactivate or disable your Amazon account.

This is something that Amazon doesn't publicize but I have read from other Amazon Customers that Amazon does indeed have such a policy in place.

Some of the Customers whose Amazon accounts had been disabled were long time or Business Customers due to too many Returns or Refunds.

[oark · Accepted solution]

Solved 

Motherboard was broken, replaced with X670E Asus Pro Art