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zireael
Adept I

PC Turns off while gaming

Whenever I play games that are more high end my PC turns off at a certain point in the game,my fps is normal and there's nothing out of the ordinary but when I get to a certain point of the game it just crashes my entire PC,It happend on Star Wars Jedi Fallen Order when the cinematic for arriving at the planet Zeffo plays and on Black Mesa when you're at the last level on the Plant and most recently it crashed when I was playing the new Mafia Definitive Edition and I was escaping after trashing the cars of the rival mafia.I really would like to get this problem solved and I don't think temperatures are the problem since it can happen when you just enter a game and after 2min of gameplay it can crash when you reach that certain point again,I will attach my Specs from CPU-ID. Please help me..

26 Replies

Set your Power Limit Slider to +50 or as high as it goes. If this alone does not help then set a custom fan curve that turn the fans onto full 100% at about 65c. These two things usually help the Polaris cards a lot. 

Thank you for responding. Sadly it didn't work I set the power limit slide to +50(which is as high as it goes) and set the custom fan curve as well after playing Mafia Definitive Edition and doing the race mission I played it and had to restart from checkpoint a couple of times and it just crashed my PC at the race,which it didn't do on the first few times I tried beating it

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Sorry for the second reply but I also noticed it doesn't happen on lower end games like LoL or Valorant only on newer high end games like Star Wars Jedi Fallen Order,Black Mesa,Mafia Definitive Edition and it can be fixed by lowering the graphics settings to a way lower setting but I don't understand why it crashes my PC when I play on high or ultra settings which my PC can do because I get pretty good fps which only sometimes dips but I don't mind that

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Did you try the custom fan curve. Throttling can make the driver hang too.

If you want to test the Power Supply run the program OCCT from OCBASE dot COM. 

It can help diagnose PS and GPU issues. 

mstfbsrn980
Grandmaster

Your power supply or motherboard is faulty. The problem you are experiencing has nothing to do with the GPU.

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Yea I think it's got something to do with the PSU but it's rather annoying since I got this PC pre built and now there's a problem.. Guess I'm gonna have to start building my own from now on

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Your system may be damaged further. Do not use it. And try another PSU and check the 3.3-5-12V values again.

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Looking at your CPUID Image it shows your PSU is defective:

The minimum PSU voltages output for:

12 VDC is 11.4 VDC, CPUID is showing Max 9.728 Vdc

5 VDC is 4.75 VDC, CPUID is showing Max 4.032 Vdc

3.3 VDC is 3.135 VDC, CPUID is showing Max .064 VDC

Basically you lost 3.3 VDC output on your PSU. Don't know how accurate these readings are, but your computer shouldn't even be able to boot up if accurate.

Download and run OCCT PSU Test and check the PSU Output voltages before running the PSU Test and see if it is similar to CPUID reading or not.

EDIT: Or something is shorting out the PSU if the PSU is not defective.

Those are rather troubling news.. I've been using it for like a year now I'm afraid that it's too late for me to replace the PSU but I'll try,it shut down on me when playing games like 8 times hopefully it didn't get ruined. I'll try the PSU test and send the results soon

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Most PSU have at least a few years of warranty. If you have your receipts likely you can RMA it. 

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To verify accurately the PSU outputs, at least the 12 VDC, see if you can borrow or have a Digital Multimeter. A cheap model will do or analog meter that checks Vdc. 

Then take one of the Molex connector (large white or black 4 pin connector) from the PSU and connect the Digital or Analog meter to the Molex power pin and ground. It should read 12 Vdc or maybe a little less while the computer is on.

If you still get 10 Vdc or less your PSU is most likely defective.

aad.pngI downloaded the app thingy and went to monitoring and have CPUID open at the side as well since I'm kinda stupid when it comes to stuff like this I'm not sure if it's the same or not after you reply I'll do the power test on this application and send you the results and I'm really thankful for your help and am really sorry for taking up your time

OCCT is also showing very poor PSU outputs. In fact worse than CPUID is showing. Both show that you have no 3.3 Vdc outputs from your PSU.

So either your Motherboard is defective and showing the wrong PSU outputs or the PSU is definitely defective. With those voltages your computer shouldn't even boot up.

I don't think it is a good idea to do a OCCT PSU Test on that PSU. It might end up damaging the PSU and or Motherboard completely and you won't have a computer to use anymore.

The best way is to use a multimeter to check the 12 Vdc  output. If the 12 Vdc is similar to what is showing in OCCT and CPUID you need to replace the PSU. You can see how to check the PSU outputs with a multimeter by looking at YouTube videos.

Find out what Wattage your PSU is and Make & Model. You can open the side of the computer and probably get that information and post it.  IF you purchased the entire PC as a whole unit it might still be under Warranty.

If the PSU is less than 650 Watts I would try and upgrade to a 750 Watt PSU if possible and if it will fit in your computer case.

EDIT: To compare your OCCT PSU Voltages to my wife's computer PSU voltages and you will see what I am talking about concerning your PSU outputs:

MY wife's PSU 3.3 Vdc is outputting a much higher voltage than 3.3 Vdc but not sure if that is due to OCCT's monitoring software that is built in. But the 12 Vdc is almost perfect and within the 5% tolerance.

Thank you for the reply,I decided to return my PC since my warranty is still valid my current PSU is 520W,I just hope nothing else got broken because I've been using this PC for 11 months now..

The Warranty should cover all hardware installed including the PSU and Motherboard.

Good luck and hopefully you will get a good working computer again.

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Go to an electronics master. And ask for PSU voltages to be measured. Have PSU checked for malfunction. If the PSU isn't faulty, you can retire the motherboard. Using such systems can unexpectedly damage other parts of the systems. Do not use if possible... Goodbye... 

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The PC is under Warranty.

No need to take it to anyone else to troubleshoot and possibly charge a fee when the OP can get it repaired or replaced under Warranty for free.

No. Is not. The CPU is very old... And mobo...

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So what if the hardware is old or not. If it is Warrantied by the seller that is all that matters. As long as the OP is happy with what he has and the Seller repairs or replaces the PC under Warranty that is all the really matters.

Now if there was no Warranty then I would tend to agree with you. Also depends if the OP can afford to upgrade major  PC hardware which are not cheap.

I totally agree. In reality unless you are AAA modern gaming many computers from 10 years ago are still just fine for office apps, web browsing, media playback and a huge library of older games. With this kind of usage is you add in just an SSD the user experience is negligible from that of a whole new machine in many cases. While I have a gaming machine that is newer my gaming rig from 10 years ago is still in service in my home in my wood shop where I play Netflix, music and search the web on it. If the power supply in that machine dies I would gladly buy another power supply without feeling the need to get a whole new computer. It is great if you can keep old machines going, it keeps one more machine out of the landfills. 

No one can give warranty to a third generation Intel processor and the components connected to it. This warranty would be something left over to a second hand system. I told OP what needs to be done. The PSU must be tested with the help of a device for the voltages. That's it... It is OP's choice to obtain the required information or not. I made the necessary warning. The remainder does not concern me much.

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The entirety of the PC is indeed under warranty and I messaged them saying my PSU is defective and am currently waiting for a response I do agree that the CPU is very old but that is just how it came prebuilt to me and I really don't mind it much since I don't game to achieve 120 fps on 4K or anything I'm fine playing games on 1080p with 30+fps the only thing that troubles me is for how long I've been using it and how many times it shut down by itself and could you please tell me if 520W is enough? Because if they do replace it it will probably be with similar specifications to the current PSU and I'm not sure if that's enough

A seller can offer you some kind of warranty. You can buy an old computer like new and use it as if it was under warranty. However, when one of the important parts is damaged, you have a motherboard that you cannot find a replacement for it.

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The PSU is one of the most important hardware in your PC.

But it depends on your GPU and CPU (Both hardware requires the most power from your PSU) you have installed. 520 Watt PSU is probably fine for the hardware you have installed. But if in the future you are planning to upgrade the GPU and CPU to one of the latest models, then most likely you probably will need to upgrade your PSU also.

So just keep what you have until you decide to upgrade either the CPU or GPU then decide if you need a more powerful PSU upgrade.

As an example, this Tech Website gives you the minimum PSU Wattage you need for various AMD & Nvidia GPU cards that your PC needs to run correctly: PSU REQUIREMENTS - RealHardTechX 

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qbtheslayer
Challenger

I don't even know how that computer is booting...  at the very least you are damaging every single component in your system every minute it is running at those gawd awful voltages...  PC hardware is designed to run at specific voltages and these values are so far below spec that damage is certainly being done.

QB

mstfbsrn980
Grandmaster

Like a comedy movie ... It is a good idea to recommend OCCT for a system that shows or receives the wrong voltages...

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