I have had a similar experience. Though my system uses a custom loop, I use entirely Noctua fans on the radiators and in the case. I similarly use their products whenever I am able.
The blurb I posted earlier about why the 3000 series run hotter than the 2000/1000 was actually also taken from Noctua's site.
My cooling setup can dissipate something like 500W with only mid level fan speed. Doesn't get me much extra performance on the 3000 series though. The limiting factor is the rate the the heat is transferred from the core to the IHS, which is effectively fixed regardless of the cooler used. Since I become voltage bound, just past 150W or so of PPT, that is all I need to be able to dissipate (plus GPU). Quite a few air coolers can make short work of that. I could raise the voltage, but as you pointed out, I am then reducing my system life expectancy from and unknown amount, by an unknown amount.
I tried your method out on my 3600 and here is what I observed:
after setting up profile 2 I switched to profile one and tried overclocking higher with multi threading disabled and couldn’t eek out a noticeable difference. Also I hate to give up the 6 extra threads when only running a 6 core chip.
at 1.325V I’m hitting 4150 in Cinebench but have to lower it to 4100 to be stable on games. If I raise the voltage to 1.35V I can hit 4150 stable which I’m happy with. is that going to be safe long term? I don’t really care if the processor is alive after 10 years.
all this talk abt AMD and FIT limiting voltage to 1.325 has me worried to set anything above that manually.
with that said my temp went down 5C from PBO and my cores are running 150MHz faster which is great in my book!
have an old heat sink that’s served me well and it seems to be doing a great job with some MX-4. With PBO I was hitting 73C with the manual method at 1.35V I’m a cool 68C!
Sorry, I seem to be the source of confusion here. The FIT limiter, is a dynamic limiter of voltage and will set a different maximum for each CPU. To find out what your limit is, enable PBO to max out your TDC, EDC, and PPT limits to motherboard levels. Now temperature, FIT and Fmax are your only limiters. Use auto-overclock to raise Fmax by 200MHz, removing that barrier. Run an all core test and overserve (preferably with CPUz) what your voltage maxes out at. That is the FIT voltage, and any voltage below that AMD's algorithm deems "safe".
The 1.325V I quoted was my FIT voltage on a 3900X. On a 3600, that voltage will almost certainly be higher.
Interesting developments on this front. An independent developer has come up with a custom power plan that supposedly improves boosting and reduces idle power when used in concert with the newly released 22.214.171.124B UEFI set and Windows 10 1909. I haven't tested it myself yet, but reviews seem positive.
Ok thanks for clarifying that. I incorrectly assumed the FIT voltage would be the same which isn’t logical if you think about the fact that the 3600 is a different beast than the 3900x.
i ran a PBO test and observed my Voltage’s topping around 1.40V so I worked my way way up from from 1.35 and 4150Mhz up to 1.40V and 4200Mhz. 1.40V couldn’t support anything higher than that and my temps leveled back up where they were with PBO however I’m hitting 200Mhz higher! My Hyper 212 Evo does admirably holding temps at 74C.
One thing I noticed is my PPT is hitting 101%, TDC 84%, and EDC 100%. Is 101% PPT ok?
my Cinebench went from 3600 up to 3776.
PPT at 101% is fine. The biggest issue with wattage is heat, and your temps are holding in the mid 70s with the cooler you have.
Manually overclocking will give a better all core boost with the same voltage than what precision boost 2 manages. You do sacrifice a little bit of lightly threaded performance as the trade off.
Essentially this does NOTHING to address the fact that left to itself Ryzen 3000 CPUs are being grossly overvolted, which will decrease the lifespan of those CPUs
The problem is not so much with the CPUs suddenly giving up the ghost as that the clockspeed attainable at a certain voltage will decrease and either MORE voltage has to be applied, or the clockspeed has to be lowered.
Here is an example running CineBench R20 in HWInfo where I have just left the motherboard to assign the voltage and clockspeed:
The next picture shows the voltage and clockspeed after I have configured my 3600X with Ryzen Master:
It was brought to my attention that Der8auer had stated that the Ryzen 3000 series of CPUs could not be run at 4.1 GHz when Prime95 was running with small FFTs (which produces the most heat).
Somehow this was not mentioned to my system because after three hours of running Prime95 with small FFTs at 4.125 GHz you can see the result below.
My system is air cooled (which is probably one of the areas where Der8auer went wrong because he was using an AIO from what I was told) and the MCLK and FCLK is overclocked on my 3600 RAM to 1867.
I have not tightened up the tertiary timings on the RAM yet, because I am waiting for my 3950X to arrive at the end of the month and configuring those timings is more of an art than a science and I really cannot be bothered spending a few days configuring those now, only to have to do it all over again with the new CPU.
You can see when I started Prime95 (which was at 13:43) and on the bottom right you can see what time it was when I took the screenshot (which was at 17:00) and 17:00 - 13:43 equals 3 hours and 17 minutes.
The ambient temperature of my room was 26°C which is at least four degrees Celsius higher than the ambient at which Der8auer normally tests his stuff.
So I think I can state with confidence that I am doing something right.
I am glad to have been of help.
It has been immensely frustrating for me to have had to discover that "Guides" published in the Tech-Press and by Tech-YouTubers is essentially garbage, and I had to go back to first principles and discover for myself how to properly configure the new Ryzen 3000 series of CPUs.
I will be posting an update to this guide after I get my 3950X in a separate thread which I will link to in this thread.