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pato05
Adept II

Windows not booting after instaling latest drivers.

Hi guys, this is my first post here. Basically, from a few days ago, Windows started not booting, and staying froze there, until it crashed, and again, until the repair options came up. So I tried restoring a previous system point, and it seemed to boot. The next day, same thing, but then after some crashes it finally booted (so I runned DISM and SFC, but one said that it fixed, while the other didn't find anything). Today, it didn't boot at all, so I decided to run a fresh windows install, everything fine, until it booted and I decided to install the graphics drivers. Again, it crashed. I also tried booting pop!_os, and it stuck on the following: 

fb0: switching to amdgpudrmfb from EFI VGA

I think this is really an hardware problem, even though I really hope it is not (you know, graphics cards now are expensive and I need one, having no IGPU)... Do you know any way I can fix this?

My configuration:

  • Gigabyte B550M DS3H
  • AMD Ryzen 3 3100
  • AMD Radeon 5500XT

Thank you in advance.

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64 Replies

About the refund, yes I can get one, but sadly I hardly will get a new GPU since, well, you know the situation (a 5500xt now costs over 400€), I also think I might be able to get a full refund, since the card was sold and shipped by Amazon. And yes, AMD support contacted me back, but left me unanswered after I said that I had already tried reinstalling the drivers as they had suggested..

Frozst
Journeyman III

Same issue here.

I installed the combo drivers instead and all good.

Well done AMD.

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@Frozst I highly doubt it is a drivers issue at this point, but I would appreciate if you could link me these drivers, trying does not hurt anyways.

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@pato05 When you go to https://www.amd.com/en/support you can either download the Radeon drivers or click on Auto Detect and will download a small installer with the AMD chipset (if you have an AMD CPU of course...). Otherwise the Radeon software will only install the GPU drivers etc.

In my case, doing the standalone GPU drivers would leave my screens black during install and I would have to start my PC in safe mode to recover.

However, doing the auto detect route will work fine.

XFX R6800 is not stable though, 2 crashes today while browsing. Black screen, PC freezes and all fans at max speed.

I will install the certified drivers instead and if that doesn't solves the issue I will return the card.

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@FrozstOk, thank you, but I think your issue was because you didn't install the chipset drivers first. Sadly, it didn't solve anything for me, but I think I've found the hardware that causes the problem.

@mackbolan777I've found out that the computer booted up after some Windows crashes: almost the same time passed until it was "ready" to boot, so I had an idea, today I tried first booting up the computer in BIOS and staying there for 3-4 minutes before booting into Windows, and it worked! I've booted successfully on first try. At this point I really think that something is wrong with the PSU, and if you think that too, I'll get a replacement, and also buy an UPS to avoid such problems in the future.

Also, remember that bzz sound inside the computer, wonder if that's really the PSU, but if it is something like the mobo or GPU, is it normal?

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GPU can make that noise and it's called "coil whine". The PSU can do it as well. Best to listen carefully with the side off and all fans disconnected. If it's the PSU, replace it. The GPU, well it's pretty normal unless it's unbearably loud. I replaced my Corsair RM1000 that was from 2013 last week just to be "safe" since I bought it remanufactured back then. I had a buzzing sound and thought it was my former RX 5600 XT but it did turn out the PSU was it. If you're not doing so, run 2 PCIe power cords to the GPU. Running 1 cord was fine with older cards, these newer ones are power hungry and spike when booting or gaming at high FPS. A single cord is good for ~300W and 9A, an RX 6800 can pull that under a spike or high FPS game and that can cause a crash. The card pulls roughly 2.5W per frame and uses ~14A at full tilt, exceeding the load rating of the power cable. 

Using a UPS vs. a power strip with surge protection is always best but if the PC is crashing, it won't save the OS from getting corrupted from frequent improper shut downs. Most UPS have "line conditioners" built in and that keeps the electricity "clean" or noise free, another plus. I use an APC 1500vA but you can get away with a far less product. It depends on how much run time you want in a power outage. I can run ~45 minutes with the A/V turned off and no gaming.

If no screws, 2 other things I've seen are forgotten, unused, standoff's shorting the board and damage to the back of the board from installing the bracket for certain CPU coolers. The latter takes only one scratch in the board to mess it up for good and make for crazy problems while still booting. Also, did you check all the USB ports and SATA's to be sure none got broken and might be shorting? I had a case with a broken USB drive me nuts until I found the one port with the plastic tab missing and 2 contacts touching!

"It worked before you broke it!"
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@mackbolan777

Thank you for answering. I really think it is my GPU making that sound, but even though it is the PSU, doesn't matter since I'm going to replace it, since right now the computer only boots when I stay in the BIOS for at least 2 minutes. The sound is not even loud, it is just hearable when no other background noise is there.

I also think I'll buy a UPS to avoid such problems in the future (APC 500VA/700VA) and I learnt by myself that it is always good practice to have one.

I also correctly installed the standoffs, and I really think (and hope) I did not scratch the motherboard (I mean, it booted for 2 months and I did not really touch it recently), and the only case's USB header I have connected rn is the 3.1 one, since the usb 2.0 is taken by the wifi/bluetooth card.

As soon as I'll get my new PSU and I'll get to install it, I'll update this post and mark it as answered. I am really thankful to everyone who posted here, if it wasn't for you, I probably wouldn't have been able to isolate the problem and find out which really was the cause, and probably spent weeks trying to.

Are you using the latest BIOS F12? It seems odd that more than 2 minutes in BIOS would stop your problem. It takes a few seconds for capacitors to build a charge in a defective PSU and if you had a poor "power good" signal, you wouldn't boot right away, it would require multiple power button presses. At any rate, good luck on that PSU part. Now it sounds more like defective board, very possible with that model. Since the problem occurs with either SATA or NVME, it could be the onboard controller since you need to wait at least 2 minutes to boot. It sounds like a low level driver not loading timely, pre-OS meaning in the BIOS chip.

"It worked before you broke it!"
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I am using the F11 BIOS that was latest a few days ago, anyways, I didn't test it properly, but I think at least 1-2 minutes are necessary, if using graphics drivers, otherwise it boots right away.

 

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I suppose it could be the PSU since the GPU drivers will call for power to the card when Windows posts. We'll need to see.

"It worked before you broke it!"
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@mackbolan777I changed the PSU, but the problem persists... I'll try to get someone that can test my GPU on his PC. In the case that this works, what else could it be?

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If the card doe the same thing, RMA it. If not, follow below.

You're at the checklist area of troubleshooting at that point. Boot the PC and with drivers and see what codes it puts in the Event Viewer that are written even after a "hard crash", usually a few minutes or seconds after the exact time of crash. They won't be right at the time of crash, usually slightly before the will be a "AMDKDG" type error or "Processor Hierarchy", something along those lines with a code 41 under "System". This might help narrow down the failure area. If there's a lot of CPU related errors, RMA that. See if it only happens when the driver is installed. If you haven't, roll back to the first BIOS that supports the Ryzen 3000 series. Moving on.

I would make sure all other hardware was tested like RAM form start to finish with 800% coverage to be sure. MemTest Manual (hcidesign.com)  is the one I use. Try running just one stick of RAM, if it stays stable, there's most likely a board/CPU problem. Look for obvious damage on the motherboard you might have missed, bulging capacitors, cracked PCIe slot, etc. Test the SSD with the OEM test most manufacture's have on their sites. SeaTools by Seagate works on most SSD's that are more or less generic like ADATA. Pull the CPU and look for bent/missing pins, use a magnifier to be sure.

If all else fails, it could be a defective motherboard. That model wasn't Gigabyte's finest work. I almost used it due to how little it cost but skipped it for quality concerns after reading many poor reviews about it. The fact it's a B450 chipset running a Ryzen 3000 series is sketchy at best. That chipset wasn't made for that CPU series, it was forced by a BIOS upgrade to work. It's the lowest on the "totem pole" considered to be able to "handle" the 3000 series.

My gut is if there's nothing wrong with the card or the RAM, the CPU looks fine, replace the motherboard first, CPU is probably ok because there hasn't been a huge amount of complaints on that model. If you want to be certain, take the whole thing into a  well qualified PC shop and let them test the entire PC. Anything we do here is flow chart based and some shooting from the hip. Truth be told, if it were in my hands, I'd be able to tell you for sure in about an hour what it is. So a qualified shop is your safest bet for any money spent. 

"It worked before you broke it!"
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I did already Memtest the whole ram, and drive too, also I found some errors in the event log regarding BLTHUSB, but I guess that was because it was missing drivers (indeed it disappeared), also I am using a B550M not a B450

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My bad I didn't realize Gigabyte made a B550 version, my opinion was based off the B450 version of the same board. The B550 is much better but still on the low end scale. However, reliability did increase quite a bit when they moved this board to the B550 chipset. Not many complaints at all. That's not to say this one doesn't have an issue. Your problem is either a bad GPU, CPU or board. The board we can almost cross off since the RAM passed, I'm assuming multiple passes? Now the missing driver for Bluetooth USB is interesting in that do you have such a device connected? That refers to a USB Wi-Fi adapter or onboard chip/slot for a Wi-fi card. I'm pretty sure your board doesn't have onboard Wi-Fi. 

When you install the OS are you using a USB drive with just Windows 10 on it? Is it the most recent 20H2 and made via the Windows Media Creation Tool? Just trying to make sure there's no OS corruption happening. If none of that is at issue, you're back to pulling the CPU to check for damage, RMA'ing the GPU, or taking the whole thing to a shop to have someone look at it. There's the option of swapping the card into another PC just to see as well.

To be clear, it won't run right on the 20.8.3 or 20.9.2 driver? The driver is available via this link anywhere in the world :AMD Radeon™ RX 5500 XT Previous Drivers | AMD

Use DDU in safe mode: Display Driver Uninstaller Download version 18.0.3.6 (guru3d.com)

If you can't locate the driver off that link, search it out in your country, it has to be available. Worst case is let Windows Update pick the driver or let AMD's site automatically install the newest one out and see. It just came out the other day.

"It worked before you broke it!"
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@mackbolan777 I am extremely sorry for this very late response. I was trying to get someone to look for the PC in the meantime, but this coronavirus makes it all worse.

Yes, I do have a wifi/Bluetooth card, which actually stops working for some time, when the computer freezes (probably related to a power issue?), I did try removing it, but it wasn't the problem either.

Yes, I did download Windows 10 20H2 from the Media Creation Tool, downloaded from microsoft.com. The thing is that I would want to avoid returning a component which I'm not sure it's the problem's cause, it happened with my PSU, which showed up to be working just as right... But if that may be the only chance, I'mma request one.

I also tried old drivers, but none seem to work...

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@mackbolan777 I got in touch with the Sapphire support, but they sadly said the couldn't make me an RMA because they selled the card to Amazon with a discount and without manufacturer warranty, also Amazon has none left so I can't get one from them as well, but they told me (sapphire) to use a pencil eraser on the PCI-E connector, so I did that but as I expected it didn't help at all

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Check the BIOS version and that board for compatibility to be sure all that lines up. This is an older post, so to be clear it boots cleanly, after about 2 minutes in BIOS, to Windows? You might need to adjust some BIOS voltages, check to see if the SOC voltage is at 1.10, VDDP .940-1.00, VDDG .950-1.00 or if they are all default it should be ok. CPU vCore or whatever your BIOS calls it should remain on "auto". Any PBO options should be disabled or greyed out.

DRAM voltage should read whatever the box said or off the sticker on it. If you're trying to run the RAM using "XMP" or "DOCP", don't. Get the first 4 numbers off the box or sticker and enter those in BIOS by making the DRAM "manual". Enter the speed or select it from the list, enter the timings manually top to bottom of the one's you got off the box or sticker (should be something like 16,16,16,36,50 voltage 1.35v-1.45v is typical). 

That last part about not using the "XMP" or "DOCP" and entering your RAM stuff manually, might be the fix. Pencil eraser....

"It worked before you broke it!"
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Everything is on Auto/its default value, I didn't change anything, also it doesn't help if I disable XMP. I have also updated the BIOS to F13 (latest), also it is a B550M which should be compatible by default to a 3rd gen ryzen... I really do think I've got a defective board..

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boot into safe-mode
does that work?

if yes:
you use a modded BIOS for your AMD GPU!

run atikmdag-patcher_v1.4.9.exe (from https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher) in safe-mode

boom - your windows will work normal again

PC: R7 2700X @PBO + RX 580 4G (1500MHz/2000MHz CL16) + 32G DDR4-3200CL14 + 144hz 1ms FS P + 75hz 1ms FS
Laptop: R5 2500U @30W + RX 560X (1400MHz/1500MHz) + 16G DDR4-2400CL16 + 120Hz 3ms FS
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Dunno about a modded VBIOS being an issue as you would've needed to use a special program to do that and this is a 5500XT, not known for having any mod for the BIOS for anything I'm aware of. However, you may be in luck since Gigabyte released a board BIOS update on 3/12/21 F13e, I think but it's new and is the Agesa 1.2.0.1, that might fix things up. 

You can try Benman's patch thing, I've never heard of it, but maybe? GPU-Z is a program that can ID the vBIOS you have and then you can look it up online to see if it matches your card. As far as I know there was no mod for your card made for increased memory bandwidth, like the RX 5600 XT. Basically if you bought the card new from a known retailer/etailer, it's a factory vBIOS and should work as intended.

I can't reliably say the motherboard is defective, or any other part from all the weird items in this post. If the BIOS update doesn't correct anything, you've tried reinstalling Windows and all the drivers from AMD, not the vendor, then I don't know what to tell you. The unit needs to be looked at hands on by a tech at that point to find the actual issue. This is like the blind leading the blind at this point. Replacing or RMA'ing parts is shooting from the hip and is not likely to fix the issue. However, if you replaced every part, of course one would think that one of the parts would fix the issue, you just wouldn't know which.

"It worked before you broke it!"
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I personally wouldn't install a modded vBIOS, since I am scared of losing warranty. I am currently trying to replace my motherboard, in the hope that it would fix the issue, since also, if I wait in the BIOS before booting, it successfully boots, even though eventually, there will be a great lag spike, and my wifi card would throw out an error, so I really think it is a motherboard issue since not just one component works properly, but both of the PCI-E cards. (also, wifi works perfectly without gpu drivers as well)

 

I should return it in 3 days and in the meantime I will buy another one.

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Update the motherboard BIOS first. Not the GPU, the Gigabyte board. That's a "user" operation that the manufacturer expects the end user to perform or have done at a shop. The new BIOS addresses part of the known issue of PCIe slots not working properly but in the 1st week of April another update is coming out to fix both the PCIe and USB port issue. Replacing the board will not fix his since YOU are responsible for updating the motherboard, not the manufacturer. Doing that will not void your warranty. Follow the instructions in your manual or online from Gigabyte's site on flashing the BIOS.

This is the first time you mentioned a WIFI device. The driver being wrong or that device being incompatible will give an error 17. To see if it's the issue, uninstall it and use an ethernet cable to see if the problem vanishes. If it does, that WIFI is your issue. 

The WIFI card installed too close to the GPU can cause this problem as well due to RFI. In that case, move the WIFI down a slot or 2, as far away from the GPU as possible. You might need a higher quality WIFI card with proper shielding. 

"It worked before you broke it!"
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The wifi card is pretty close to the GPU and I have no other choices since the board is just enough to host both, and anyways I tried running the PC without WiFi, physically removed, but the issue persisted, guess I'll try updating the BIOS, but I think it really is an hardware issue (like a failing component), rather than a software one, since the PC stopped working from a day to another, not by updating the BIOS...

I got nothing more to offer. Good luck!

"It worked before you broke it!"
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I have just looked into my BIOS and seems like I already upgraded to F13e

EDIT: Thank you, I really hope that replacing the motherboard will be the fix.. If you think about it, it is now either the motherboard or the GPU itself, but the GPU also works fine once booted up, if you make exception for the random freezes, probably caused by a motherboard failure (also, yes, I have reset the settings as well as cleared CMOS physically)

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