I purchased a second hand Powercolor R9 Fury X and a component of the back of the card has blown or was previously modified.
I cannot post pictures of the card at the moment. I cannot teardown the GPU to look to see if there is damage to the other side of the PCB yet.
I would have purchased a new card ... but was unable to. I invested in R9 Nanos / Fijii based cards as RX Vega release was so late.
RX Vega 64 cards are overpriced or > 2 slots high and cannot work with R9 Nanos in Crossfire.
The R9 FuryX card failed within 1 day of use. I had just started testing the card with default clocks, fan speed and power target.
I was running Windows 10 64bit, i7-4790K at default clocks, 32GB Ram, Primary GPU = Powercolor R9 FuryX, Secondary GPU = PowerColor R9 Nano. PSU = Corsair AX1200i.
I was running Adrenalin 18.3.4. driver and Wattman Fan controls seemed to be working fine.
I tested DisplayPort 1 and 2. I ran 3D Mark Firestrike and Timespy Demos (not benchmarks), and a few hours of some AAA games.
Card temps seemed fine @ ~60'C during testing.
Card crossfired O.K. with a PowerColor R9 Nano.
I powered the PC down. I connected the third DisplayPort Output to the monitor and I booted up the PC.
The Red Radeon Logo lit up on the R9 Fury X but the Red and Blue tachlights did not power up, the fan did not spin and I got no display output.
Could someone with an R9 Fury X to help me identify the component on the back of an R9 FuryX card and it's function if possible please?
Here is a picture of a teardown of a functional R9 Fury X (not the card I purchased) with the component of interest circled in red named B200.
I think the card is totally beyond repair. The damage at the red area is bad. Either someone had previously modded the card to temporarily replace a blown component or the component shown had failed due to overuse.
I have already tried opening an AMD Support Case (they cannot help), and contacted PowerColor Support (No response).
However if I could identify the component it might help me work out what happened/ went wrong with the card.
Solved! Go to Solution.
After some effort I managed to repair the Blown R9 Fury X Fan Controller.
The GPU is now running fine.
I disassembled the R9 Fury X completely and cleaned the PCB with Isoproyl Alcohol.
I did not touch or replace the thermal paste on the cooler.
I replaced the blown component with a '0' Ohm surface mount resistor rated to blow if the fan windings short out.
I soldered the connection as follows using a battery powered soldeing iron with a very thin tip and some thin strands of AWG wire.
I used a magnifying glass from a "hobby hands" set to solder the smt resistor to the wire strands and then connect the wires onto the Lowest Pad and the red fan lead pin:
Lowest "B200" pad ---> '0' ohm surface mount resistor--> Blown "B200" Pad (Red Fan lead pin (Fan "VDD"))
The replacemt surface mount resistor runs horizontally from the lower "B200" pad across to the Red Fan Lead pin on the fan header.
It was to difficult to get a connection to the top Blown "B200" Pad.
I just did the soldering to the surface mount resistor by hand because I was just doing an initial test to see if repair was at all possible.
I will replace with a proper through hole to surface mount pcb to through hole adapter if this GPU lasts for more than a month after repair.
Here is a picture of the Blown Fury X in operation- it is running outside my PC case via PCIe2.0 mining adapter.
I connected a Corsair HD 120 RGB "Pull Fan" driven from my PC Motherboard and controlled by AIsuite3 and Corsair iCUE to the other side of the radiator.
The fan speed control is working on the supplied fan that came with the R9 Fury X. It only runs at 1200 r.p.m and is only rated at 0.1 Amp but I will look for a replacement Fury X Gentle Typhoon 3000 rpm fan in the future which has a rated current of 0.22 amps. The rated current of the HD 120 RGB fan is 0.3A, so I will not drive it from the R9 Fury X just in case i blow the fan controller "fuse".
Here is the Repaired R9 Fury X running Compubench Ocean Surface Simulation.
In conclusion GPU "repaired". It will be interesting to see how long it lasts though.
I still need to replace the thermal paste, and run more extensive test on the GPU so I will leave it for now.
Thanks for everyone who helped with suggestions on how to fix it.
IMO, the only way to find out is by locating the Electrical schematics for that card. Then you can find out either by the symbol or reference code what the component does and its purpose.
If it was just that one component and no other traces or components were destroyed inside the PCB (Some PCB boards have more then one layer of circuits) and you have the proper equipment to solder and desolder the component. Find yourself another bad Fury card and try to replace it from that card.
BTW, Some warranties are transferable to new owner if bought used and if still under Warranty. I know that Asus does.
EDIT: I didn't realize it was you colesdav. I guess I am preaching to the preacher. You probably are aware of everything I said.
I did google R9 Fury electrical Schematics and found a website that seems to have it but you need to sign up and it seems like it isn't free even though its say it is free. Anyway, if interested here is the link: Nitro Wiring Diagram - free download wiring diagrams
I did open a support case with AMD. I believe that the R9 Fury X PCB are all reference designs so I thought they might know. They told me to contact PowerColor.
PowerColor Support seems to be to return the card to the place where it was purchased. I have no idea where that was. The person who sold it to me is not responding to that question, and did not include the original receipt in the box.
I do not think the electrical schematics will be available easily.
I think the PCB is multilayer and it looks like it has been punched through. I would need to look at the card PCB with a microscope to determine if any tracks in that area look damaged. I do not know if some damage was present before I connected the card and ran it in my PC.
I should have removed the 4 screws on the card backplate and checked the PCB before I powered the card up, but the external condition of the card looked great, and even if I did that I have no way to see the other side of the GPU PCB.
It might be possible to measure across the component with a multimeter, as long as the card is disconnected from the power supply and tell what it's value is. For example if it is a resistor connected to ground or perhaps a diode. It might be possible to tell what the component is.
I have been working on a proper SMD Solder Rework station, but I really was not thinking of using it to work on this GPU....
RE: Find yourself another bad Fury card and try to replace it from that card.
I might be able to get hold of one, but unlikely. Most I see for sale seem claim to be working, have had one previous owner, and never been used for mining ....
RE: BTW, Some warranties are transferable to new owner if bought used and if still under Warranty. I know that Asus does.
I think it depends on where the card was sold. I contacted PowerColor, and Sapphire about this, they tell me Warranties are not transferable at all.
I will think about your suggestion of looking for a burnt out for parts only card (like the one I bought ...).
Oh well, looks like this R9 Fury X is one for the bin or or maybe to be sent to Buildzoid ... he *might* be able to make use of it for something.
It's a real pity the card failed because I was really impressed by the GPU Clock Stability and the Temps compared to an R9 Nano. The AIO cooling solution looks good, and I assume it is ~ the same as on the RX Vega 64 Liquid Edition. I did not overclock the card but I estimate it might have been able to hit maybe a 5-7% overclock from 1050MHz so maybe 1175MHz just based on the temps I was seeing versus an R9 Nano.
Hi, the schematics site you pointed me to seems to refer to a 2008 Dodge Nitro Radio Wiring Diagram, and my Norton Internet Security definitely does not like the link.
Thanks anyhow, it made me laugh.
Just had a thought. I own a couple of PowerColor R9 Nanos. I will had a look for a component named B200 on the R9 Nano PCB and maybe it has the same function as B200 on the R9 Fury X. Long shot I know but maybe worth a try?
I don't blame you. I was wary of logging on also. I didn't get any warnings from my Mcafee Website safety app. nor from WOT which is why I posted the link. If I would have gotten a Warning I would never post the link.
A couple of Users recently here in the Forum had Sapphire GPU cards. One was a R9 Fury and the other, I believe, was a R3900 card (My sapphire r390 just die after drivers update). Both cards suddenly died after either updating the AMD driver or playing a game. Both computers shut down by itself. After restarting, no signal from the card. Both cards seemed to have burned out.
Found out Sapphire has a two year Warranty (From Amazon.com). But you must take it to the place of purchase for them to repair. The User in Europe ( Sudden death of Sapphire R9 Fury? ) took his R9 Fury to the place of purchase. They told him if the card can't be repaired that they will give him a prorated amount to replace the card. They offered to give the User 150 Euros if it couldn't be repaired. The User said he couldn't purchase another similar card like the Fury for 150 Euros.
The reason why I mentioned Asus, it was when I was helping a young User with his Asus Nvidia Card on Nvidia Forum, it seemed like his GPU card went bad. He couldn't afford another card (He sounded like a High School kid) and he purchased the GPU card used from Amazon Marketplace. So I went to Asus and Contacted Asus Support to find out about their Warranty. They have a three year Warranty regardless of who owns the card. As long as you give them the serial Number of the GPU card and it is under Warranty the User can RMA the card. it is covered. They might ask for a Receipt under certain circumstances. Gave the good news to the young User because the card was still under Warranty with less than three years since the original owner bought it. He said he was going to contact Asus. Never heard from him again. So I suspect his card got RMA from Asus Support.
I tried to google the Reference "B" on a PCB board. In Wikipedia it showed the majority References for electronic parts in a PCB board. This link is safe : Reference designator - Wikipedia .
The only close reference was BT for Battery. So I know that wasn't it. Sometimes "B" could stand for BATTERY according to the Wiki.
Good luck, your best bet is to cannibalize the part from another card.
Should be the same. Same company manufacturer and same Reference designator. Probably the electronic component is used in more than one type of card. Good idea.
Found this IEEE Reference PDF. "B" could stand for Blower or BLower Motor. Here is the PDF link: http://electronica.ugr.es/~amroldan/pcb/2007/modulos/temas/ReferenceDesignators.pdf .
It is possible that component has to do with the GPU fan circuitry.
The component is in an area of the PCB on the opposite side beneath the fan header on the card.
So it could indeed be B for Blower that sounds correct.
Or it could be B for "Blowup" ...
I believe the The R9 Fury X uses a 120mm 3000r.p.m Sythe Gentle Typhoon Fan, specs are here:
I think the exact model is D1225C12B7AP-29 (3,000 rpm)
The PWM fan controller wiring on the R9 Fury X is:
Black = 0V
Red = +12V
Yellow = Sense (Fans have a Fan Speed circuit which sends back information to the Fan Controller) - measured at 3.75 volts with the fan running at full speed. Blue = PWM control signal from the R9 Fury X Fan Circuit. Measured between 0.45 and 3.75 Volts depending on Manual Fan Speed control setting in AMD Adrenalin 18.3.4 Wattman.
I measured those values using a high impedance multimeter.
A simplified electrical model for a DC PWM fan should be a resistance (to represent the winding resistance of the coil on the rotor) in series with a "Back e.m.f." voltage source which represents the voltage generated when the windings move and cut the magnetic flux in the permanent magnet field of the motor.
In other words the PWM fan itself, when connected to the Red and Black wires on the PWM Fan Controller, looks like this in a simplified electrical model:
+12V(Red) -------Rwinding------- + Vbackemf - --- 0V (Black wire).
When the Fan is not spinning (at start up) there is no back e.m.f. voltage generated by the fan, and hence the fan start up current is the maximum worst case condition you should see. In the above case the start up current would be Istartup = 12v/Rwinding.
So just for example if the winding resistance of the fan were 12.4 ohms then the starting current of the fan would be 0.97 amps stated in the specification for the fan. The rated current for the fan is 0.22 amps which means the back e.m.f. of the fan when running at 3000 r.p.m. in the specification would be:
(12 - (0.22*12.4)) = (12- 2.73) = 9.27 Volts.
Note in my case the card worked initially but failed at subsequent boot up, in the condition when the fans are not spinning.
Also note, it is not generally a good idea to stop a spinning pwm fan with your hand, as you will artificially run the fan in the startup current condition.
Getting back to the PWM fan controller on the card, I do not believe that the +12volt supply (Red) or the 0V DC supply lead outputs have any form of current limiter. However is it possible that the B200 component is a fuse?
Other than that I think the Yellow fan speed sense wire would have to connect to a high input impedance circuit on the R9 Fury X card which should not draw any high current.
The Blue PWM fan control signal from the R9 Fury X should not have to drive any high current either, it should only be sending a signal to a fan driver power stage on the fan circuit itself, which could be as simple as an N channel pull down power Mosfet (I__I) connected as shown.
+12V(Red) -------Rwinding------- + Vbackemf - --- |___| --- 0V (Black wire).
Blue (PWM Control)
Note the pull down Nchannel Mosfet would have an "on resistance" > 0 ohms, so the Rwinding in the earlier calculation would have included the Mosfet on resistance.
Does the above sound reasonable to you?
I am certain the card is beyond repair and I do not really want to put it back in my PC.
There is a hole in the the PCB either due to previous modding and the component is completely missing from the board.
I smelt burning when I powered up my PC when the card failed.
That is the only reason I removed the GPU backplate.
There are what look like old burn marks on the PCB, some black material on the board ... and a dark brown mark on the inside of the GPU backplate above the missing component.
When I purchase a used GPU I treat it with great care in case if fails initial testing and has to be returned. I do not overclock, and I do not run anything crazy like Furmark stress testing.
I am more interested to determine what the component is and why it may have failed, since I connected the card properly to a fully working and tested PC it should not fail in < 1 full day of testing.
Here are the conditions on the PowerColor Warranty.
Warranty Information (Global) - PowerColor
The bold red uppercase text comes from the PowerColor Website ... not from me. I am not shouting at you.
"The warranty is valid for two (2) years starting from the original purchase date (verified through invoice) and ONLY VALID to the ORIGINAL owner. The warranty cannot be transferred if the product is to be resold or has switched ownership."
Looks like PowerColor might be tired of people having to purchase old GPU's because there are no new ones at reasonable price / good enough Performance/Power as well.