I tried the same setting in Windows 10. Sadly it didn't worked: Can you tell me what settings you choose in the Adrenaline Software ? Thanks for the tip anyway !
I didnt think it was a PSU because other games are fine.
On this same windows boot drive i was running an itel cpu and a nivida graphics card. I did remove all the nivida drivers with DDU. But i have a feeling something was off. I reinstalled windows, and reverted to the previous driver to see if the issue continues.
Thanks, for the response.
I have it in another post and it seems to help others. Go into the tuning area on the Radeon software, enable "automatic" OC. Get the "undervolt GPU" number, write it down. Switch into "manual" OC mode enable all disabled settings. Slide the minimum clock to within 100Mhz of the maximum. Enter that voltage you got into the voltage area. Disable zero RPM fan. Set the "power limit" to max. Hit apply and save that profile under the 3 dots at the top right. Run 3D Mark TimeSpy tot test stability. Or just try Warzone see if that doesn't fix it. I have a Gigabyte RX 6800. Here's my settings, working 100% with driver 12.2.1
It looks like undervolting the card has somewhat fixed the issue (still testing). I turned the voltage to 1000Mv and played for about 3.5 hours with no crashes. This may possibly be the solution.
I extensively tested my OC setting in Time Spy and Port Royal and its stable.
I'm getting ready to RMA my Asrock Phantom 6800... having tons of trouble with hard crashing that requires power down, along with VGA error light.
I'll try the OC/undervolting settings suggested above.
Anybody know if a new driver update is coming soon? I'm on 20.12.1 (Dec 4, '20 release date).
The Phantom is an OC model so be careful with the clocks on that one, like going too high. You might want to go into the "tuning" area of the Radeon driver, set it to "automatic" OC and get the "undervolt GPU" number, the "overclock GPU" number, same with VRAM but you could leave that stock, enable "fast timing" though. Most cards won't hit 2150 VRAM, 2140-2100 is the 90% mark. Switch back to "manual" OC mode and input those numbers, making sure to raise the minimum clock to be within 100Mhz of the maximum clock. Turn off the Zero RPM fan feature and slide the "power limit" to max. Adjust you fan curve more aggressive, like mine, for best results.
Skip the AsRock tuning utility. As with most manufacture designed "tweaking programs" it just makes more problems than it solves.
If your PSU offers 2 separate PCIe power cables for the GPU, use both, rather than the split dongle. If you're still having hard crashes, look at your RAM settings or check it in general with something like: MemTest Manual (hcidesign.com) to see if a stick is failing or a setting is not working. I found this program to be better than Memtest x86 and the paid versions are cheaper.
Not sure on a release date for a newer driver. This one works for me, however, I know there's fixes that need to be made for some who use more than a 1080p display. I can say that your hard crashes are most likely not driver related based on the description.
Appreciate the tips! At the point I have ruled out ALL hardware problems except Mobo and CPU. I've replaced PSU, PSU cables, brand new SSD, Brand new Windows, swapped back to previous RAM.
A little testing last night with Min/Max OC at 2100/2200 and other suggested settings caused crash instantly in Forza. However, this would very likely be identical to what I experience at factory settings with all default Radeon profiles.
Will test more tonight!
What are your system specs? So far I'm going by just the card. 2100/2200 for the GPU clock on that card is light, in fact it's stock. Your card has a factory OC of 2310. It actually lists 3 clocks so I don't know if the BIOS on that card has 3 programmed in or just the normal 2. If it's 3, than you'd want to use the AsRock utility to do this same thing but factor in the base clock, game clock, boost clock. 2310/2210/2110 or something for the 3 clocks. Run the regular power plan, leave VRAM alone. Usually cards like these have a dual BIOS, one for power and one for economy. Yours has a switch for ARGB.
I personally dislike that card and brand in general for reasons I won't get into. Truth be told, I've heard few success stories with AsRock and the 6000 series. The thing should run fine out of the box and it's not.