The hybrid arctic cooler doesn’t look like it really does anything differently than the g12.
Lol its a huge difference, its like letting ice cream on sun vs in the freezer, that passive cooler on the backside is very important, if you want to keep the G12 you should by an additional cooler blowing air directly on the backside of your graphic card, at 110 junction your graphic card will start throttling due to high temperature.
The card doesn’t come with anything to cool the backside from the factory though. I’m not saying that you’re wrong, I don’t have any way to test it, but I don’t really see how a heat sink is going to cool the components through a fiberglass pcb.
You can watch any of the g12 reviews and they’ll almost all show that vrm temps are well within operating temp without a heatsink. If the vrm needed a heatsink the g12 would include one. Motherboard vrms barely need heatsinks as long as you’re not drawing crazy power from them, that’s why they usually use solid hunks of aluminum as heatsinks. With active cooling a heatsink is not needed. As far as that video by Timmy Joe where he couldn’t get a g12 to work, he showed that vram and vrm temps were well within acceptable limits. He said himself he couldn’t figure out why he was having problems. My guess is he wasn’t monitoring junction temp and for some reason it was getting hot. A simple thermal pad or stronger mounting pressure could be the solution.
Make sure you point a fan at the vram. Be aware of the locations. All around the GPU processor. Watch the GamerNexus break down on Youtube if you need more info.
I got it working! Well to be completely honest I’m still waiting for my g12 bracket in the mail, but in the meantime I ziptied my AIO to my GPU die. I’m maxing out at 41 degrees during stress testing. The reason AIOs are hit or miss with this card is that they have to have DEAD flat cold plates since the die is so small. If the cold plate has a convex/cone shape too it (all current Asetek pumps do because that shape’s supposed to make the best contact with a flat IHC) or if the mounting pressure isn’t dead even on all 4 corners the temps will skyrocket. I had to deck my coldplate, but once I did I saw my load temps drop from high 70s/80s down to low 40s.
I stand corrected, delltech was right about how important ram cooling is with GDDR6. Unfortunately GDDR6 has a much, much higher TDP than older versions of vram (at least Samsung’s does). With heatsinks directly on the chips, on the back of the card behind the chips, and with a fan blowing directly on them I’m seeing temps up to 90 degrees (even higher during certain stress tests). Granted that’s with my 5700 (non xt) overclocked to 2100 MHz and junction temps around 80-90 degrees (edge temps top out at 55 degrees). Stock my ram temps top out in the mid 70s, but the whole point of water cooling this card was for overclocking stability and noise. I’ll be ditching the AIO route and going full open loop (something I’ve always wanted to try anyway).